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All Locations > Massachusetts > Cape Ann > Down Under

Down Under

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British


 Avg: 3 from 1 vote

Routes in Down Under

Adventures with Kate & Enoch T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ball of Confusion T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beast From The East, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blocks T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bruce V0 4
Cape Ann Fingerbang TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A
Charging Rhino V5- 6C
Chippas Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cloak and Dagger V2 5+
Corner Crack TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crippler TR V1 5
Doug's Nose V2 5+
Doug's Roof 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
Down Over S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Down Under S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eric's Route T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flaming Galah V2 5+
Least Of The Deceased, The TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Arete Project TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A
No Pro T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Premature Escalation V0- 4-
Right Arete Project V7 7A+
Second Pitch Face TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sleek Streek TR V1 5
Splitter T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tony the Tiger T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Vegamite V0 4
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Type: Sport, TR, 20 ft
FA: Herb Stillman/Doug Millen
Page Views: 763 total · 9/month
Shared By: Chris McNeil on Jan 21, 2012
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Description

This line requires an interesting mix of techniques. Use the bare face for solid slabby feet, but use the corner arete for a good crimp, and shimmy your way up to the solid dike under the arete. Pull up and reach on top of the arete and for another good crimp to top out.

Location

This is on the east side of the gully, directly across from The Beast From The East.

Protection

3 bolts and TR anchors.

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2 Comments

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mnatti
mnatti  
A Doug Millen/ Herb Stillman line. Doug did the original version (5.8) of this route with a single bolt at half height, using the left arete to pull up to the central clipping jug. Herb did the same line... without using the arete at all. Herb says the direct slab line up goes at 5.10, though I feel a 5.11(+) is not a stretch at all! Mar 3, 2012
jim.dangle

jim.dangle    
Are there 3 bolts on this? Only two are visible by my eye.

JIm Aug 11, 2013

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