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Down Under

5.8, Sport, TR, 20 ft (6 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Herb Stillman/Doug Millen
Massachusetts > N Shore > Cape Ann > Redrocks & Vici… > Down Under

Description

This line requires an interesting mix of techniques. Use the bare face for solid slabby feet, but use the corner arete for a good crimp, and shimmy your way up to the solid dike under the arete. Pull up and reach on top of the arete and for another good crimp to top out.

Location

This is on the east side of the gully, directly across from The Beast From The East.

Protection

3 bolts and TR anchors.

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Down Under.
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Down Under.
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

mnatti
[Hide Comment] A Doug Millen/ Herb Stillman line. Doug did the original version (5.8) of this route with a single bolt at half height, using the left arete to pull up to the central clipping jug. Herb did the same line... without using the arete at all. Herb says the direct slab line up goes at 5.10, though I feel a 5.11(+) is not a stretch at all! Mar 3, 2012
jim.dangle

[Hide Comment] Are there 3 bolts on this? Only two are visible by my eye.

JIm Aug 11, 2013
ZB 4yr
Worcester
[Hide Comment] Tough .8. Didn't really use arete until after the last bolt. 2 bolts. Sep 20, 2018
Devin Emanuel
[Hide Comment] The bolts are still there, but the bolts at the top for the anchor have been chopped. There are no nearby trees or features to make an anchor. Jul 28, 2023