Elevation: 74 ft
GPS: 42.60037, -70.88032
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Shared By: jim.dangle on Jun 3, 2020
Admins: Joe M, Old Timer, jim.dangle

Description

The coast north of Boston is home to high quality granite rock climbing. Most of this is fairly dispersed and— with a few notable exceptions— on the smaller side. Places of particular interest include Lynn Woods, which probably offers Boston-area boulderers the best combination of proximity, accessibility, and concentration of high quality problems, and Red Rock, which has the best single pitch climbing in Eastern, MA.   

Also notable is the extensively documented bouldering on Cape Ann. Though less concentrated to particular areas than Pawtuckaway to the North (and even Lynn Woods) this area has the advantage of generally drier settings, short bug season, and ocean-moderated temperatures. It is quite possible to climb year around without undue suffering (save for the extremes of summer heat and winter snows). In the summer months, with a little planning one can boulder most of the day, swim in the ocean, and— if one is so inclined— enjoy decent beer and overpriced seafood in a scenic seaside setting.

Getting There

Most of the these areas are best accessed via rt.128/95. See the area listing for more specifics.  

2,806 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Shore

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 30
Bear Grease
Boulder
V1+ 5 PG13
 33
Golden Slab
TR, Boulder
V3 6A
 45
Holly the Happy Healer
Boulder
V3 6A
 55
Subway
Boulder
V4 6B
 40
Queen's Row Face
Boulder
V5 6C
 64
Stone Warrior
Boulder
V6 7A
 28
D. Dog Leg Crack (SDS)
Boulder
V6 7A
 51
Dean's Problem
Boulder
V7 7A+
 44
The Buttermilker
Boulder
V7+ 7A+
 35
Green Haze
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 83
Toe Jams
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 198
Zipper
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 69
Steps
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 52
Zits
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 54
Morning Glory
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bear Grease Lynn Woods > … > Bob Johnson Crag > Bob Johnson Boulder 1
 30
V1 5 Boulder
Golden Slab Lynn Woods > Mt Spickett/Gol… > Golden Wall
 33
V1+ 5 PG13 TR, Boulder
Holly the Happy Healer Lynn Woods > Stone Tower Area > Slant Right Boulder
 45
V3 6A Boulder
Subway Lynn Woods > Stone Tower Area > Stone Tower Boulder
 55
V3 6A Boulder
Queen's Row Face Lynn Woods > Stone Tower Area > Queen's Row Boulders
 40
V4 6B Boulder
Stone Warrior Lynn Woods > Stone Tower Area > Stone Tower Boulder
 64
V5 6C Boulder
D. Dog Leg Crack (SDS) Lynn Woods > Weetamoo Area > Weetamoo Boulder
 28
V6 7A Boulder
Dean's Problem Lynn Woods > Stone Tower Area > Stone Tower Boulder
 51
V6 7A Boulder
The Buttermilker Lynn Woods > Stone Tower Area > Stone Tower Boulder
 44
V7 7A+ Boulder
Green Haze Lynn Woods > Stone Tower Area > Stone Tower Boulder
 35
V7+ 7A+ Boulder
Toe Jams Cape Ann > Redrocks & Vici… > Red Rock Main Area
 83
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Zipper Cape Ann > Redrocks & Vici… > Red Rock Main Area
 198
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Steps Cape Ann > Redrocks & Vici… > Red Rock Main Area
 69
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Zits Cape Ann > Redrocks & Vici… > Red Rock Main Area
 52
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Sport
Morning Glory Cape Ann > Redrocks & Vici… > Red Rock Main Area
 54
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
More Classic Climbs in North Shore »

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