Type: Boulder
FA: Bob Parrot
Page Views: 2,062 total · 21/month
Shared By: andyscott on Sep 28, 2010
Admins: Dave Twardowski, Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

You & This Route

16 Opinions

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Squat starts under the small roof with left hand in a large cave-like hold and right on a slopey crimp next to it. Make a big move out of the small roof and continue on by traversing the left-leaning arete, and top out around the corner. An easier variation, about V4, climbs directly out the roof and tops out straight up above.


This is directly left of the problem Green Haze and starts squatting under the obvious roof/overhang.


A couple pads.


Old Timer
North Andover MA
Old Timer   North Andover MA  
A full-sit to this problem that goes at V7- was recently sent. Start with a low left crimp (sidepull) and the slopey, right rim (below the cave-like feature you use for the squat start) and sparse feet. Make a huge move to the sloper, lock off, and finish as for the V5 version. Oct 2, 2010
Ryan Bouldin
Ryan Bouldin   Somerville
I like to start this climb with a left hand in the big hole and a right on the slopey arete on the Green Haze. It goes about the same grade either way, but the first two moves are more fun. The sit start to this climb is great. Mar 18, 2011
Jamie Re
Providence, RI
Jamie Re   Providence, RI
I liked the alt start that Ryan B mentioned. Cool problem. Sep 9, 2012
I disagree with Ryan B. and think that starting with a hand on the sloper from Green Haze removes the first crux and makes it substantially easier.... Def solid V5 from traditional start.... more like V4 from other start. Dec 19, 2017
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
The full sit, Ethan. Get it. That first big move you mention gives a unique momentum that is worth doing for sure. Great problem. Dec 20, 2017
Dave Twardowski
Los Angeles, CA
Dave Twardowski   Los Angeles, CA  
Classic and one of the most unique problems in the woods! Agree with Tim - the starting move out to the arete from the right hand crimp was a lot of fun when your feet cut out. Mar 24, 2018