Type: Boulder
FA: Andy Scott
Page Views: 2,857 total · 27/month
Shared By: andyscott on Sep 28, 2010
Admins: Dave Twardowski, Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

This problem is similar to Bodacious at Pawtuckaway, only it has more moves and more beta. Sit start as far right as possible in a small alcove and start moving left using slopers, a crimp, heelhooks, and tension. Finsh farther to the left making a move out a small overhang where the arete ends.

Location

To the right and around the corner from Stone Warrior. It is the obvious, left-leaning arete.

Protection

Couple pads.

Photos

Dave Twardowski
Los Angeles, CA
  V7
Dave Twardowski   Los Angeles, CA  
  V7
vimeo.com/148694996 May 6, 2018
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
  V7
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
  V7
I assume (as do most others) that the jug sidepull on the face is not part of the problem. Once a hand is on the jug, the climber is able to reach up and grab the "Phat Lip" and top out. This makes it an early escape. Keep your hands on the lip all the way to the end for Green Haze. I'll post up the escape (Phat Lip) as a separate problem, since it is worthy. May 14, 2018
Old Timer
North Andover MA
  V7+
Old Timer   North Andover MA  
  V7+
Tim,
Correct! Green Haze stays glued to the lip of the slopey, left-leaning arete the whole way and then tops out.

Pete May 14, 2018
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
  V7
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
  V7
Even though there is an escape, the movement is classic. Seeps after rain. May 16, 2018
Dave Twardowski
Los Angeles, CA
  V7
Dave Twardowski   Los Angeles, CA  
  V7
Classic arete. Delicate and precise movement on the edge of 45 degree lip. Go get it!

youtube.com/watch?v=eMtwuPa… May 28, 2018
Nick Pellegrino
North Reading
  V7+
Nick Pellegrino   North Reading
  V7+
youtu.be/hzVzk0PnBtI

Alternate beta, I ended up using the large sidepull, but didn't take the early exit. It's massive and within reach, also it didn't seem to affect the grade at all. I thought the crux was the upper blank section of the arete.

Nick Dec 26, 2018