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Routes in Sunshine Wall

Blind Faith T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dangles Crack T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kimchi S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rusty Nail, The A1-
Type: Sport, TR, 15 ft
FA: Unknown. First lead on bolts: mnatti
Page Views: 1,285 total · 17/month
Shared By: Chris McNeil on Jan 25, 2012
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


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Description

This is an awesome, little, balancy line. Start on the flake, and move up and along until it runs out. Reach out for the first hold to the left, then lay your right foot out to the right to balance out. Hold the form for the next two moves to top out.

Location

This is to the left of the old bolted aid traverse.

Protection

3 bolts to TR anchors.

Photos

mnatti
  5.10
mnatti  
  5.10
Kimchi. Cape Ann 5.8+, so a Rumney 5.10(ish?). This line starts on a beautiful, hand gobbling flake and traverses left of an amazing, juggy rail. The wall is well overhung and the moves are straightforward but sustained with a sweet rock over to finish up onto the slab above. I installed 3 bolts (plus 2 on top) on this line, and after leading it, I have to say that this line alone makes the walk out to this cliff worth it. As a TR, expect a bit of a swing, but the lead is all there and totally rocks! And yes.... like most of the routes at this area, it can (and probably has been) be bouldered with a few pads and attentive spotters. Feb 27, 2012
chris21
  5.10
chris21  
  5.10
The holds on the juggy rail are super sharp, and the rock above and over the edge is like 8 feet of 40 grit sandpaper against your rope when setup for a toprope or lower off. Nov 9, 2015
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
 
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
 
Yeah, best not to TR this. It was bolted specifically for the highball nature and bad landing. Leading it provides a good safe climb. Dec 6, 2015

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