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Routes in Redrock and vicinity

Andromeda T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Black Streak TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Broken Ankle S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Excuse Me T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosty The Boulder V1 5
Happy Feet S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Me T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hobo's Chimney, The V1+ 5
Hole in One TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V3 6A
Laughing Gull S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Midnight Train TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Morning Glory S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Bolt TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Steps TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Plank, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ray's Picture T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rip Van Winkle T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scotty Bones TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seappage T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slab n' Jab T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Slip Van Winkle S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steps Direct TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Stonehenge Slab T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swayback T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Toe Jams T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Velcro T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Why Me? TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wings of Steal T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Wink Van Ripple TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wizard's Hat, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Y - Boulder V1+ 5
Zipper T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zits S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 1,803 total, 24/month
Shared By: jim.dangle on Nov 27, 2011
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


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Description

Make thoughtful moves up the fun slab on the left side of the little triangular buttress (crux). Exit at the weakness under the tree, traverse right on the ledge, and then lay-back up the the corner. Exit right at the top of the corner towards a small tree.

This may be the tallest climb on the cliff.

Location

Start on the left of the little triangular buttress that forms the ramp at the start of Morning Glory, Steps, and Zits. It is almost directly beneath the large tree midway up.

Protection

TR bolts are left of the corner above the face. Setting up the TR anchor can be a bit a sketchy, so consider clipping in for safety.

I have not led this, but the initial slab is entirely unprotected. Also, the top of the corner widens to off-width, so one would need wide gear to protect it fully (but it is the easiest part of the climb).

It would also be possible to move up the easy ramp on the left to the tree.

Photos

mnatti  
The slab start is about a 5.9 I believe, protected with a pad. The ramp keeps the grade solid and is definitely well protected. As for the top.... the anchors were added for TR but makes for a spicy "pg-13"/ "r" slab finish with out changing the grade (much). Does that top move want a bolt to protect from a rolled ankle? I didn't feel it to be a "must" but perhaps for the grade it should be considered. Talk amongst yourselves. The Bosch will stay dormant for now. Jan 12, 2012
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
I think it is the slab start (containing the crux) where the R rating comes from. Which indeed is unprotectable and has a pretty rough landing, about 15ft from the cruxs...yikes. Dec 13, 2011
A good alternative moderate when the routes on the main face are occupied. The corner crack at the top is pretty fun. When I led it, I climbed the ramp on the left of the slab which takes plenty of gear. Also, I found plenty of gear on the upper section as well, just look around. The only slightly spicy move is at the top if you are going for the anchor bolts off to the left. Instead, I used the tree and a stopper at the top of the corner. I would not give this climb an R rating, PG maybe. Dec 10, 2011