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Routes in Redrock and vicinity

Andromeda T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Black Streak TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Broken Ankle S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Excuse Me T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosty The Boulder V1 5
Happy Feet S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Me T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hobo's Chimney, The V1+ 5
Hole in One TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V3 6A
Laughing Gull S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Midnight Train TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Morning Glory S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Bolt TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Steps TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Plank, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ray's Picture T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rip Van Winkle T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scotty Bones TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seappage T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slab n' Jab T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Slip Van Winkle S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steps Direct TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Stonehenge Slab T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swayback T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Toe Jams T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Velcro T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Why Me? TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wings of Steal T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Wink Van Ripple TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wizard's Hat, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Y - Boulder V1+ 5
Zipper T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zits S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,788 total, 16/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Nov 18, 2008
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


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Description

This is a nice bit of friction on the smaller face to the north (right) of the main face. It is essentially a one-move wonder. Climb the Zipper-like flake at about 5.5. Protect well where it ends, about 8 feet below the top. The climb consists of navigating this blank section. Smear and trick your way through to some uninviting slopers (only one or two moves of .10a) and top out. It is scary above the gear!

Location

This is on the narrow face to the right of the main face. The flake is an obvious feature.

Protection

Small cams and nuts. The flake is never wider than green Camalot size.

Photos

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trundlebum
Las Vegas NV
trundlebum   Las Vegas NV
You guys sure this route isn't more appropriately named:
"Rip Van Winkler" ?
It used to have a 1/4" button head and Leeper hanger about 4~6' above the terminus of the crack, making it a really fun (less scary) lead.
Since it originally had a bolt there someone aught to replace it? Sep 6, 2013
jim.dangle  
 
I'll have to try that direct route sometime. I don't remember the glue/chopped bolt though.

Morning Glory is only 5.10 on lead; 5.8+ otherwise.

The "+" is crucial.

Jim Apr 30, 2013
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
 
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
 
Jim, I think I've avoided going out right because there is glue/chopped bolt garbage on that face. If I remember, I place my gear carefully, then make a high smear/slanted toe jam with a foot (R/L?), then move my other foot up and then finish up.

+1 for no bolt. This was my first outdoor 5.10, trad OR sport. For Red Rocks 5.10 slab, it's only beaten by Morning Glory. Yeah I call 5.10 on Morning Glory, sorry.... Apr 29, 2013
jim.dangle  
 
I agree. In fact this is good route for starting to wean oneself from bolts. You can get multiple pieces of easy high quality gear in the crack. The moves up from there are spooky for sure-- I'd even say hard for the grade-- but the gear is at your feet and as soon as you make the move the first move, it gets easier. I think it would actually be harder to stop and clip at the point.

Do people go straight up from the crack or step right to the little shallow nub? I have seen it done both ways but I always head out right. Maybe that's my mistake.

One of my favorite little climbs for some reason.

Jim Apr 23, 2013
Read Januskiewiecz
New England
 
Read Januskiewiecz   New England
 
I second the no need for a bolt comment. Super fun climb, you can get excellent gear in the last part of the crack, and I took the ride before sending and the fall isn't bad at all. Apr 22, 2013
EXCELLENT route, no need for a bolt if you are confident in your gear placement, just place a couple of pieces below the crux and fire it, the fall is clean although slabby and the crux is over quickly. Jul 18, 2012
Max Antinori
  5.10a
Max Antinori  
  5.10a
Very fun route, would be much better IMO with a bolt protecting top crux. As is, it probably gets very few leads which is too bad. May 21, 2012
andyscott
Massachusetts
andyscott   Massachusetts
Solo. Mar 20, 2010
fez
fez  
The Dark Side of the Moon is the small wall before the main face on the trail up near the highway. It's the flake. Sep 27, 2009
fez
fez  
It's called Rip Van Winkle. Look in Boston Rocks. Sep 27, 2009