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All Locations > Massachusetts > Redrock and vicinity

Morning Glory

5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British


 Avg: 2.7 from 33 votes

Routes in Redrock and vicinity

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Black Streak TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Broken Ankle S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Excuse Me T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosty The Boulder V1 5
Happy Feet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High Me T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hobo's Chimney, The V1+ 5
Hole in One TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V3 6A
Laughing Gull S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Midnight Train TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Morning Glory S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Bolt TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Steps TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Plank, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ray's Picture T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rip Van Winkle T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scotty Bones TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seappage T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slab n' Jab T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Slip Van Winkle S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steps Direct TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Stonehenge Slab T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swayback T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Toe Jams T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Velcro T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Why Me? TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wings of Steal T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Wink Van Ripple TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wizard's Hat, The T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Y - Boulder V1+ 5
Zipper T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zits S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Sport
FA: Henry Barber?
Page Views: 3,613 total · 31/month
Shared By: bryan barnett on Nov 7, 2008
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Description

Move up the left-leaning ramp. Step right to bottom of Steps crescent. Move up a tall move to a short dike. Mantle and move to the top.

Location

This is on the left end of the main crag at a left-leaning ramp / offwidth.

Protection

One bolt...now there are 3 bolts.

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Photos

"Morning Glory" starts to the left (not pictured) and then ascends straight up past the two shelves in the middle of the photo. The first bolt is visible on the left. "Zits" ascends the vertical seams up to the left.
"Morning Glory" starts to the left (not picture…
 0

10 Comments

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DFrench
Cape Ann
DFrench   Cape Ann
Update: as of August '09 there are 3 bolts protecting this climb, which felt just about right. Felt like 5.9+ on a humid day in the sun.

On a side note, has anyone climbed the left-facing corner with two crack systems that is about 20 feet left of this climb (like if you were to continue up the left slanting ramp at the start)? Oct 4, 2009
HBTHREE
ma
HBTHREE   ma
I think those cracks are High Me, 5.7 (5.9ish if you go direct up the slab), and 20 feet further left chimney 5.6. Both take big gear at the top like a BD #4 or Bigbro at the top of High Me. Great climbs. Nov 21, 2009
andyscott
Massachusetts
  5.9+
andyscott   Massachusetts
  5.9+
Feels more like hard 5.9 slab if you ask me. Mar 20, 2010
Todd Glew
Charleston, WV
Todd Glew   Charleston, WV
Welcome to northshore climbing, guy, the grades are all wicked fackin' sandbagged, guy. Oct 11, 2010
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
  5.11
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
  5.11
This is a great climb! But I agree with the last guy. The ratings are wicked sandbagged. Second mantle moving takes some pretty delicate moving to a nice slab TO. Nov 9, 2011
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  5.10 PG13
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
  5.10 PG13
I've top-roped this a couple of times but haven't gone for the lead yet. It's definitely in the 5.9+ range, that's actually what the guidebook says, don't know why it got put in as 5.8+.

Zits, to the left is 5.8+. Nov 14, 2011
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
  5.11
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
  5.11
Do people normally take the left ledge after the second mantle or smear T/O? Dec 2, 2011
mnatti
mnatti  
History lesson - this line was originally done by Henry Barber (the bottom two bolts were already there, though still not sure who placed them). The original line stays left of the middle bolt and exits as for Zits. This goes at (Cape Ann) 5.8+ (according to the old version of BR, the new one removes a bit of weight from the sandbag. Zits was originally a graded 5.7). The third bolt was added in the late '90s to protect the 5.10(+?) version of the line, which stays right of all the bolts, going up the slab. Feb 13, 2012
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  5.10 PG13
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
  5.10 PG13
I would say that if you move left after the second mantle it is probably a solid 5.10. Harder if you go right from the mantle on the extremely slopey rumps.

Leading it makes for a huge fall potential when you do the third(?) mantle and clip the third bolt, per say, if you were shaking like a leaf and blew the third clip...you'd probably land no more than 15 feet off the ground.

BETA ALERT:
My sequence was this for anyone wondering what I'm grading...after the dike, move right through a sloper to the crimp rail. Make this absolutely terrifying mantle, stand up and clip the third bolt. Then exit back left using the sloping edges that end "Zits," then head straight up the slab after the ledge, directly to the anchor. Going right after mantling the rail would be harder 10 climbing. Mar 24, 2012
jTaylor
  5.10a
jTaylor  
  5.10a
I don't enjoy slabs a whole lot - but I thought this was fun as well as one of the better routes I've done at Red Rocks so far. Apr 2, 2014

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