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Routes in Redrock and vicinity

Andromeda T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Black Streak TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Broken Ankle S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Excuse Me T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosty The Boulder V1 5
Happy Feet S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Me T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hobo's Chimney, The V1+ 5
Hole in One TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V3 6A
Laughing Gull S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Midnight Train TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Morning Glory S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Bolt TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Steps TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Plank, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ray's Picture T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rip Van Winkle T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scotty Bones TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seappage T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slab n' Jab T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Slip Van Winkle S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steps Direct TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Stonehenge Slab T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swayback T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Toe Jams T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Velcro T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Why Me? TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wings of Steal T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Wink Van Ripple TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wizard's Hat, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Y - Boulder V1+ 5
Zipper T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zits S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 456 total, 9/month
Shared By: jim.dangle on Jul 22, 2013
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

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Description

This ascends the very blank arete and face to the left of High Me. It is very thin starting out and requires Herculean body tension as you smear on the face and grope and undercling the arete.

Location

Start as for High Me, but once you reach the ledge, ascend the arete behind the large pine tree.

Protection

No pro, so use top-rope anchors for High Me on the top of the face.

Photos

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chris21
  5.10
chris21  
  5.10
I thought the crux was keeping my shoes clean enough to stick, the rock turned into sand with every step above the horizontal. The hardest climbing was between the tree and the horizontal. Nov 9, 2015
jim.dangle  
 
Great, Matt. I changed the grade. The upper part does look easier. I still have to get out and try it again.

Jim Sep 14, 2013
mnatti  
I have done it on TR ages ago. Crux seemed right off the ledge? I'd say hard 5.10 but would be called a sandbagger. Herb Stilman used to solo this back in the day but he is part velcro! Sep 14, 2013
jim.dangle  
 
I put this up because it's a decent line, relatively independent, and a little hidden up there. Although it shares a start with High Me, it is a much different climb in character and grade (and High Me has like three starts anyway). I tried it briefly on top rope the other day and didn't get it clean. It was hard but seemed doable.

If anyone knows anything about the first ascent or original name, let me know and I'll put it up. Also, if you've done it and have an opinion about the grade, please note it.

Jim Jul 22, 2013