Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,603 total · 21/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Oct 20, 2008
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Description

Toe Jams climbs a toe-width crack on the far right end of the main wall. From the bottom, scramble up and right over blocks to the base of the crack. Belay from here or the bottom, bottom recommended. Hand and fist jam with ease up the low-angle crack until it becomes shallow and face holds appear. Anchor at trees.

This crack is a wonderful introduction to jamming for beginners. The crack itself isn't long or sustained, but offers quite a few moves of compulsory hand- and toe- jamming.

Location

This is on the far right side of the main Red Rock face. It is a hand crack hidden by trees, with blocks at the base.

Protection

Light rack of gear to 3". Hexes and cams. Belay at trees or bolted anchors. A toprope can easily be rigged by walking up the path next to the route and anchoring the trees.

Photos

Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
  5.6
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
  5.6
Two twos and two threes seem good on the lower half and a 0.5 for the crux. Nice light rack for a very fun lead. Jan 16, 2013
Good route to practice hand and toe jamming as they say. Apr 7, 2013
chris21
  5.4
chris21  
  5.4
There are bolted anchors at the top of this. No need to use trees for a top rope anchor just put quickdraws on the bolts. Jun 30, 2013
J Meagher
  5.5
J Meagher  
  5.5
Awesome splitter with perfect foot jams. Nov 30, 2013
Florian H  
 
If you have smallish feet, the start can be a little tricky, since it starts off off-width. I would definitely call the start the crux of this route. Easily protected with a #3 Camalot.

In the middle section (near the crystals), the rock on the right hand side sounds a little hollow. It seems there is a flake on top of more solid rock. Makes for a very grippy crack, but I wouldn't trust my gear there too much.

Easy top-rope setup, too, as chris21 said. Maybe the route description should be updated. Sep 15, 2014