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Routes in Redrock and vicinity

Andromeda T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Black Streak TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Broken Ankle S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Excuse Me T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosty The Boulder V1 5
Happy Feet S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Me T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hobo's Chimney, The V1+ 5
Hole in One TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V3 6A
Laughing Gull S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Midnight Train TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Morning Glory S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Bolt TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Steps TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Plank, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ray's Picture T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rip Van Winkle T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scotty Bones TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seappage T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slab n' Jab T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Slip Van Winkle S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steps Direct TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Stonehenge Slab T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swayback T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Toe Jams T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Velcro T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Why Me? TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wings of Steal T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Wink Van Ripple TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wizard's Hat, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Y - Boulder V1+ 5
Zipper T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zits S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,283 total, 20/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Oct 20, 2008
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


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Description

Toe Jams climbs a toe-width crack on the far right end of the main wall. From the bottom, scramble up and right over blocks to the base of the crack. Belay from here or the bottom, bottom recommended. Hand and fist jam with ease up the low-angle crack until it becomes shallow and face holds appear. Anchor at trees.

This crack is a wonderful introduction to jamming for beginners. The crack itself isn't long or sustained, but offers quite a few moves of compulsory hand- and toe- jamming.

Location

This is on the far right side of the main Red Rock face. It is a hand crack hidden by trees, with blocks at the base.

Protection

Light rack of gear to 3". Hexes and cams. Belay at trees or bolted anchors. A toprope can easily be rigged by walking up the path next to the route and anchoring the trees.

Photos

Florian H  
 
If you have smallish feet, the start can be a little tricky, since it starts off off-width. I would definitely call the start the crux of this route. Easily protected with a #3 Camalot.

In the middle section (near the crystals), the rock on the right hand side sounds a little hollow. It seems there is a flake on top of more solid rock. Makes for a very grippy crack, but I wouldn't trust my gear there too much.

Easy top-rope setup, too, as chris21 said. Maybe the route description should be updated. Sep 15, 2014
J Meagher
  5.5
J Meagher  
  5.5
Awesome splitter with perfect foot jams. Nov 30, 2013
chris21
  5.4
chris21  
  5.4
There are bolted anchors at the top of this. No need to use trees for a top rope anchor just put quickdraws on the bolts. Jun 30, 2013
Good route to practice hand and toe jamming as they say. Apr 7, 2013
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
  5.6
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
  5.6
Two twos and two threes seem good on the lower half and a 0.5 for the crux. Nice light rack for a very fun lead. Jan 16, 2013