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Routes in Redrock and vicinity

Andromeda T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Black Streak TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Broken Ankle S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Excuse Me T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frosty The Boulder V1 5
Happy Feet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High Me T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hobo's Chimney, The V1+ 5
Hole in One TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V3 6A
Laughing Gull S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Midnight Train TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Morning Glory S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
No Bolt TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Steps TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Offwidth T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Plank, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ray's Picture T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rip Van Winkle T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scotty Bones TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seappage T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slab n' Jab T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Slip Van Winkle S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steps Direct TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Stonehenge Slab T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swayback T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Toe Jams T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Velcro T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Why Me? TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wings of Steal T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Wink Van Ripple TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wizard's Hat, The T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Y - Boulder V1+ 5
Zipper T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zits S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Doug Millen
Page Views: 1,042 total · 14/month
Shared By: Chris McNeil on May 5, 2012
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

You & This Route


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Description

This line starts on a thin, right foot on the face and two wide, inward hands. This first move and half is the crux and is probably where the name comes from. Once you attain the large jugs midway up, the gritty of it is over with. Follow the jugs to the single bolt 5 feet from the TR anchors.

Location

This line is to the right of Roll the Bones. Start on the block right of the tree and left of the left-leaning, ugly rail.

Protection

This line does certainly go on gear. Use c3s and rock pro around the crux. I am not really sure why the single bolt was placed. The top half is more of a runout.

Photos

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totally fucking awesome, fully engaging climb. The author is correct in that the gear is very small and thin but very good, the runout to the top is all there but unprotected. Jul 18, 2012
James Chase
  5.9+ R
James Chase  
  5.9+ R
I think the bolt might have been meant as a right variation to Roll the Bones since there is a fairly easy traverse and would protect the end of the traverse over. It's like 3 feet from the top anchors so it's hard to understand why it would have been placed there otherwise since the top half of this route is like a 5.2 and it is REALLY close to the end. Though, I have no idea why you would do this right variation since the end is super easy. Pretty odd.

I really liked the opening moves till you get to the jugs. We used some fun stemming to start it up. Dropped a top rope since the routes we wanted to do were busy and even though it is super short, I think it is worth doing.

Also there is a nice BD helmet lodged behind the tree/rock near this route as of today. Thought about taking it since it is going to get ruined sitting out there and is tucked away in a spot not frequently climbed. So if it is still there for the next climber, someone should give it a home. Would make a better brain bucket than no brain bucket. Apr 7, 2013

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