Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Toe Jams

5.5, Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 92 votes
FA: unknown
Massachusetts > N Shore > Cape Ann > Redrocks & Vici… > Red Rock Main Area

Description

Toe Jams climbs a toe-width crack on the far right end of the main wall. From the bottom, scramble up and right over blocks to the base of the crack. Belay from here or the bottom, bottom recommended. Hand and fist jam with ease up the low-angle crack until it becomes shallow and face holds appear. Bolts up top for anchor.

This crack is a wonderful introduction to jamming for beginners. The crack itself isn't long or sustained, but offers quite a few moves of compulsory hand- and toe- jamming.

Location

This is on the far right side of the main Red Rock face. It is a hand crack hidden by trees, with blocks at the base.

Protection

Light rack of gear to 3". Hexes and cams. Belay at trees or bolted anchors. A toprope can easily be rigged by walking up the path next to the route and anchoring the trees.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Toe Jams.
[Hide Photo] Toe Jams.
Elliot getting into the business.
[Hide Photo] Elliot getting into the business.
Placing a bomber cam at the start.
[Hide Photo] Placing a bomber cam at the start.
Elliot starting up Toe Jams.
[Hide Photo] Elliot starting up Toe Jams.
Mara on "Toe Jams".
[Hide Photo] Mara on "Toe Jams".
It goes on hexes.
[Hide Photo] It goes on hexes.
Toe Jams
[Hide Photo] Toe Jams
"Toe Jams" heads up the obvious wide crack. A variation heads right out onto the face once over the bulge. A bolt for "Happy Feet" is visible on the face on the far right of the photo.
[Hide Photo] "Toe Jams" heads up the obvious wide crack. A variation heads right out onto the face once over the bulge. A bolt for "Happy Feet" is visible on the face on the far right of the photo.
Toe Jam to the right of the rope.
[Hide Photo] Toe Jam to the right of the rope.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Two twos and two threes seem good on the lower half and a 0.5 for the crux. Nice light rack for a very fun lead. Jan 16, 2013
James Chase
[Hide Comment] Good route to practice hand and toe jamming as they say. Apr 7, 2013
chris21
  5.4
[Hide Comment] There are bolted anchors at the top of this. No need to use trees for a top rope anchor just put quickdraws on the bolts. Jun 30, 2013
Florian H
 
[Hide Comment] If you have smallish feet, the start can be a little tricky, since it starts off off-width. I would definitely call the start the crux of this route. Easily protected with a #3 Camalot.

In the middle section (near the crystals), the rock on the right hand side sounds a little hollow. It seems there is a flake on top of more solid rock. Makes for a very grippy crack, but I wouldn't trust my gear there too much.

Easy top-rope setup, too, as chris21 said. Maybe the route description should be updated. Sep 15, 2014
Amy Zamora
Boston, MA
  5.5
[Hide Comment] Really good route for practicing fist jams and hand jams for a newer trad climber. The bottom bit is a little spicy with the offwidth foot, but with a good fist (at least for my size hands), it was pretty great. May 23, 2022
Lion Forest
New England
[Hide Comment] FWIW, the flake that is about half way up seems to be sounding worse and moving more if you tap it with your hands/feet. In particular, the top crimpy portion of that feature is sus. Jul 16, 2023