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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 922
Submitted By: toddgordon on May 7, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Weo ascends the buttress in the center of this pic...


This route is down and to the right of the small tower Gandy. Bolts and fixed pins protect this route. The crux is down low on a slab past a bolt or two. There is an anchor on top to make a short rap ( or downclimb) and soon you will be near the start of the climb Toby, on the left side of the main Sibera area of Outer Mongolia. This climb is one of the easiest climbs in the area, has well-enough protection, has some length to it, and is worth a visit, but is often overlooked because it takes a few extra minutes to get to the base, and it's away from the main staging area by a few minutes as well.


Down and right from the climb Gandy.


Quick Draws for bolts and fixed pins.

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By Nick Y.
Apr 10, 2012

Partner climbed this route on 3/30 and said there was no anchor at the top. Had to lower off a runner (not the safest). If there is a(n) (two-bolt?) anchor, more info on location would be great for future climbers.
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Jan 11, 2015

Did the climb yesterday;...there are 7 bolts and one fixed piton on the climb, as well as a fixed anchor on top (bolt/pin/sling/ring).....
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