Mountain Project: Climbing Moab Area

Submitted By: Tradkelly on Dec 2, 2001
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
Latitude: 38.5751 Longitude: -109.5858
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Description

An excellent mix of trad and sport lines, often with routes very close together (some contrived sport routes do exist, but this is not the norm) and the ability to belay from your car or with only a very short walk in make the Potash Road crags a must-climb for any visitor. They are also an excellent introduction to some of the more committing desert climbs in the region. You won't find some of the tower climbing, the mudpiles, or the splitter cracks of other areas, but instead flakes, slabs, nubbins, edges, and other features abound.

Well over a hundred routes exist in the Wall Street area alone, and dozens of others on the other roadside crags and in side canyons. Routes range from 5.4 TR slabs to at least 5.12+, with most being in the .10-.11 range but also with many moderate classics (.8-.9s).

Please use the restroom facilities at either the Jaycee Campground (3.9 miles in) or at the "Indian Writing" sign (5 miles in). Use caution with the anchors and rock, and rap when necessary to preserve the rock and anchors; and watch for poison ivy in the summer! Watch for speeding potash-haulers and 4x4s, as well as tourons watching you and not the road, and be sure to park out of the way.

Getting There

Potash Road (Utah highway 279) is less than five minutes from downtown Moab, and the approach to many of the routes is zero. From Moab drive North on 191 (the main drag) for 1.3 miles past the bridge over the Colorado River (or 1 mile South from Arches NP) and turn South on 191, marked with signs for Potash and 279. All distances to crags are measured from this intersection.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Potash Road:

30 Seconds Over Potash 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Wall Street

Seibernetics 5.8+ Trad Wall Street

Potstash 5.9 Sport, 60 feet Wall Street

East Of Wrath 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Wall Street

Bad Moki Roof 5.9 Trad Wall Street

Steel Your Face 5.9+ Sport Wall Street

Flakes of Wrath 5.9+ Trad, TR Wall Street

Nervous in Suburbia 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Wall Street

El Cracko Diablo 5.10a Trad Wall Street

Lucy in the Sky with Potash 5.10a Trad Wall Street

Another Roadside Distraction 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Wall Street

Frogs of a Feather 5.10c Trad Wall Street

Eat the Rich 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet Wall Street

Big Sky Mud Flaps 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Wall Street

Baby Blue 5.11a Trad Wall Street

Astro Lad 5.11a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Wall Street

Static Cling 5.11a/b Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Wall Street

Skeletonic 5.11d PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Wall Street

Dark Horse 5.12a Sport, 70 feet Wall Street

Knapping With The Alien 5.12- Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Wall Street

Featured Route For Potash Road

Frogs of a Feather 5.10c UT : Moab Area : ... : Wall Street

This route starts to the right of "Shoot up or Shut up". Follow the flake up to the crack. At the top of the crack (look for a bolt) move left and climb up to the chains...[more] Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Potash Road

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By Anonymous Coward
Mar 13, 2004

Great hangout, bring suntan lotion, watch for speeding semi trucks, and have fun.

Load up on food and water in town and take a left one you head west over the river.

Remember to watch where you camp, cause you might get a ticket if you are in the wrong spot.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
Mar 30, 2009

Kudos to Sam Lightner Jr. / ASCA for replacing virtually every piece of steel on Potash. Most popular anchors are now sporting fat, modern, and painted hardware.

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