Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: Paul Bucher, Taylor Bond, Drake Buckingham
Page Views: 3,264 total · 45/month
Shared By: paul bucher on Jun 26, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

the whole thing is crux; somewhat sustained 5.9 chimney work with spicy start and finish moves. stellar, tall, big view, spacious summit. very well protected. clean. shade. best to belay inside chimney. a little loose ground outside. the cam is optional but nice. a #2 camalot would be tipped out and the #3 that i had was tight. a 3 1/2 friend would be perfect. fairly wild climb. SIC FUN! Note: there's a nice crack in the back of the chimney (on raptor) that, as of now, is up for grabs. Note #2. a word on the rating. were gona need a consensus. in the end we went with 10-. i'd rather it be an easy 10- than a sandbag 5.9. we don't think the moves are harder than 5.9, but there's a bunch of em and we were tired. also; technically the FFA is still up for grabs. cleanest ascent we got was on the follow (ie; TR). in any case; this is an excellent chimney!!!

Location

easy to find. raptor is the very obvious large tower on the left side, about 20 minutes up the canyon. Boognish is located at the left toe. climb the big obvious chimney on the right side of the tower. one rap with a single 70m from bolt anchors gets you down.

Protection

15 quickdraws and one #3 1/2 friend

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