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Routes in Boognish Tower

Boognish Tower T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: Paul Bucher, Taylor Bond, Drake Buckingham
Page Views: 2,063 total, 38/month
Shared By: paul bucher on Jun 26, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

the whole thing is crux; somewhat sustained 5.9 chimney work with spicy start and finish moves. stellar, tall, big view, spacious summit. very well protected. clean. shade. best to belay inside chimney. a little loose ground outside. the cam is optional but nice. a #2 camalot would be tipped out and the #3 that i had was tight. a 3 1/2 friend would be perfect. fairly wild climb. SIC FUN! Note: there's a nice crack in the back of the chimney (on raptor) that, as of now, is up for grabs. Note #2. a word on the rating. were gona need a consensus. in the end we went with 10-. i'd rather it be an easy 10- than a sandbag 5.9. we don't think the moves are harder than 5.9, but there's a bunch of em and we were tired. also; technically the FFA is still up for grabs. cleanest ascent we got was on the follow (ie; TR). in any case; this is an excellent chimney!!!

Location

easy to find. raptor is the very obvious large tower on the left side, about 20 minutes up the canyon. Boognish is located at the left toe. climb the big obvious chimney on the right side of the tower. one rap with a single 70m from bolt anchors gets you down.

Protection

15 quickdraws and one #3 1/2 friend
Rad! 15ish bolts + anchors = endless chimney climbing. I'm 5'7" and had to switch from chimney-ing to stemming near the top. Beautiful wave features, one bulge in particular was the crux for me. Belay from the top, bring a 70m rope for the rappel. Nov 15, 2017
Brady Chiongbian
Providence, RI
 
Brady Chiongbian   Providence, RI
 
Anchors are set up to rap off the front side... not really suitable for TR. Rope kept getting jammed even with multiple slings to extend the anchor over toward the chimney Jun 1, 2017
slim

  5.10
slim    
  5.10
superb route, well done! your comment about spicy but well protected seemed pretty accurate. i haven't really climbed anything like that, and the super wide chimney/stemming was really cool. thanks for putting it up. May 1, 2017
Evan Wisheropp
  5.10
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.10
What a cool route. The undulations in the last 25 feet were really beautiful. This is well protected and would be a great lead for someone looking to break into wide chimney as it hits all the sizes from back-knees and stemming. Apr 10, 2017
70m rap from anchors but listed at 120'? Will one 70m rope also work for the belay? Mar 14, 2017
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Cool! I've thought about doing this thing for years - glad someone got it done. It is an amazing feature. Oct 16, 2013
Peter Blank
Grand Junction, Colorado
 
Peter Blank   Grand Junction, Colorado
 
Thank you Paul! Very excellent. Your effort much appreciated! Oct 16, 2013
paul bucher
moab, utah
 
paul bucher   moab, utah
 
UPDATE: looks like karl kelly's boy and his girlfriend got the FFA. he said not 5.9. karl and his wife went and got on it. he agreed with his boy. he felt it is more like 10 b/c but also added that it was hot (108*), he was tired and this is not his main style of climbing. we have yet to get back there but i trust karl's experience and judgement on the matter. EXPECT MID 5.10 CLIMBING. our mantra remains; rather not sandbag people. Jun 29, 2013