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Trad, Sport, 120 ft,
Avg: 3.3 from 26
FA: Paul Bucher, Taylor Bond, Drake Buckingham
> Moab Area
> Potash Rd
> Day Canyon
> Boognish Tower
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
the whole thing is crux; somewhat sustained 5.9 chimney work with spicy start and finish moves. stellar, tall, big view, spacious summit. very well protected. clean. shade. best to belay inside chimney. a little loose ground outside. the cam is optional but nice. a #2 camalot would be tipped out and the #3 that i had was tight. a 3 1/2 friend would be perfect. fairly wild climb. SIC FUN! Note: there's a nice crack in the back of the chimney (on raptor) that, as of now, is up for grabs. Note #2. a word on the rating. were gona need a consensus. in the end we went with 10-. i'd rather it be an easy 10- than a sandbag 5.9. we don't think the moves are harder than 5.9, but there's a bunch of em and we were tired. also; technically the FFA is still up for grabs. cleanest ascent we got was on the follow (ie; TR). in any case; this is an excellent chimney!!!
easy to find. raptor is the very obvious large tower on the left side, about 20 minutes up the canyon. Boognish is located at the left toe. climb the big obvious chimney on the right side of the tower. one rap with a single 70m from bolt anchors gets you down.