Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Kyle Copeland?
Page Views: 8,380 total · 44/month
Shared By: Joe Auer on Oct 18, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This curving flake, just to the right of Christine's, features excellent jamming on quality rock. One of the best in Day Canyon.


Set of cams with extra hand sized pieces.


Really fun pitch! Crux was a thriller. Jun 16, 2004
Ryan Deppen
Ryan Deppen  
INcredible Route!!! I thought it was fairly sustained and the end pinches down when it gets overhanging. I thought the crux was going to the chains, kind of funky jamming. Well worth the hike into the beautiful day canyon. 3 stars for sure. Dec 7, 2004
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
A single 60m rope just works for the descent (don't worry about what the book says). Mar 31, 2008
Leavenworth, Washington
Robes   Leavenworth, Washington
Genius! Sting in the tail. Apr 18, 2014
Anyone know anything about a second pitch? Sep 17, 2014
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Amazing route. Worth the hike, especially when combined with Saab next door.

I placed a #0.5 camalot to get up to the ledge. Plus a #3 as a directional for my second on the way down.

The thing will take as many #2 camalots as you can carry. I was happy to have a new BD #4 in the lower pod 10' up the main crack, though it isn't necessary. And then some #1 camalots for the start and finish. Book says #0.75, but I didn't place any. You can get a #3 camalot in a few places as well, but it is pretty much #2s for most of the length.

Felt a bit harder than Incredible Handcrack. Way more sustained, but nothing as pumpy as the overhang on IH. Oct 19, 2014
Nathan Bell
La Grande, Oregon
Nathan Bell   La Grande, Oregon
Way fun, do it! The detached flake block in the crack at the start gets solid when you jam. What a great time. Nov 9, 2014
mike h
Denver, CO
mike h   Denver, CO
So much fun.

For the approach, stay in the wash until it becomes slickrock and bouldery, then get on the right/north bench where there's an old road to walk. Take this past the towers and Brush Painted to where the road fades and drops down, then cross the creekbed and go back up left to the climb.

My rack for next time (C4's): #0.5, #0.75, 2x#1, 5-6x#2, #3, #4. You could add/sub some #3 friends, but don't count on many #3 C4 placements. Dec 2, 2014
Moab, UT
Irieclimb   Moab, UT
Guide book refers to fingers at the top and .75s. I did not place one .75 on the whole route. Go HEAVY on the #2 camalots. (1)#3 and #4 can be useful as well. (2) #1s one for the bottom and one for top. 60m gets you down. Go into the crack direct when you can. Great climb! Apr 15, 2015
Will Vazquez
Grand Junction
Will Vazquez   Grand Junction
I got a couple rigid friends stuck at the top of this on 4/1/18. I worked a long time trying to free them, but the best I could do was to get them pointing down so you can clip them on your way up. Hopefully someone else will free them because I don't think I can do it without destroying them. Apr 2, 2018
Megan E
Boulder, CO
Megan E   Boulder, CO
The flakes on this climb are hollow sounding and some wiggle, I believe the flake you stand on to the left 1/3 of the way up will break off soon. Otherwise an awesome climb. Definitely take as many #2 c4s as possible. I only took three yellows and back cleaned/walked cams the whole way up. 2 days ago