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The Line 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Herbert, Tompkins
Page Views: 20,170
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (299)
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Adam- first day trad climbing or using an ATC. Did...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is one of the finest crack lines at the Leap. It is located in the center of the East Wall. It should not be hard to pick out, since it follows a continuous crack system for 400ft.

P1: This is the best pitch. Follow a straight in crack in a shallow LF dihedral for 130ft. The first 100ft are continuous, but rests can be found on dikes.

P2: Continue up the crack system which turns right facing. Belay before a roof.

P3: Short pitch. Climb the roof and descend to the left on a well marked trail.

Protection 

Gear to 2.5"


Photos of The Line Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The line...
BETA PHOTO: The line...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Line. Photo by Blitzo.
The Line. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Line from the Pony Express Trail.
The Line from the Pony Express Trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: The summit overhangs.  An excellent finish to an e...
The summit overhangs. An excellent finish to an e...
Rock Climbing Photo: unknown climbers on the line and labor of love jus...
BETA PHOTO: unknown climbers on the line and labor of love jus...
Rock Climbing Photo: Anne finishing up the first pitch
Anne finishing up the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Maybe you can have TOO MUCH FUN?
Maybe you can have TOO MUCH FUN?
Rock Climbing Photo: Dede following the first pitch...
Dede following the first pitch...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sending The Line on a cool day in late October.
Sending The Line on a cool day in late October.
Rock Climbing Photo: Randy at the base of the daunting line.
Randy at the base of the daunting line.
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down from the top of pitch 1
looking down from the top of pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Brett nearing the second belay if doing the climb ...
BETA PHOTO: Brett nearing the second belay if doing the climb ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Charleen leading the first pitch of "The Line...
Charleen leading the first pitch of "The Line...
Rock Climbing Photo: 2 climbers on the line
2 climbers on the line
Rock Climbing Photo: Breaching the summit overhang.
Breaching the summit overhang.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the end of the first pitch.
Nearing the end of the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brett beginning the summit overhangs
BETA PHOTO: Brett beginning the summit overhangs
Rock Climbing Photo: Brett nearing the first belay
Brett nearing the first belay
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason not far below the summit overhangs
BETA PHOTO: Jason not far below the summit overhangs
Rock Climbing Photo: My good friend Keith Hancock having fun on the lin...
My good friend Keith Hancock having fun on the lin...
Rock Climbing Photo: "The Line". Photo by Blitzo.
"The Line". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 - Line
P1 - Line
Rock Climbing Photo: can't get lost on this route
can't get lost on this route
Rock Climbing Photo: from deck, this is where our 70m rope ended - that...
BETA PHOTO: from deck, this is where our 70m rope ended - that...

Show All 24 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on The Line Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 16, 2016
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
May 29, 2006

This route can be easily completed in two pitches using a 60 meter rope. Once you've found the first belay stance immediately up and right of a roof system, it is about 185 feet to the top of the route. The rope drag on this second pitch is atrocious, and gets exciting pulling the final roof, so bring lots of slings.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 12, 2007

I've done it in three pitches, and in two pitches, and I'd agree it is better to do it in two. The third pitch is short, and if you stop where I did for the second belay, the anchor isn't all that great. An old pin, a very thin nut (3 or 4 bd) and some junk cams.
By Darren D.
May 20, 2009

Yes, easily climbed in two pitches...even for a punter like me. A nice climb with fun moves.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

... or in 1 pitch with a 70 meter rope and rap to the ground from the "Labor of Love" bolted anchor.

1st pitch is fantastic and features 2 distinct cruxes.
By Rocco Spina
Jul 26, 2010

the first time I lead the line,hex's were just making sene,great pro the whole way to the top,its great to see no bolts on the route,RR would be pruod
By Rocco Spina
Jul 26, 2010

RR had a climbing school at the leap in the early 70's
By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

A great line.
By Joe Ludlow
From: Denver, Colorado
Aug 25, 2010

Fantastic climb! I would recommend that this one be led with zero cams and only nuts! Cept for the roof. A yellow placed just below it protects it perfectly.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 24, 2011

Per Joe's suggestion, I've led it with WC Zero cams. It's pretty good that way.
By Ryan N
From: Bellingham, WA
Sep 13, 2013

The anchors for Labor of Love just to the right of the gear belay work quite nice and makes for a spicy finish with a traverse
By Brian Wade
Sep 16, 2013

You CANNOT rap directly off with a 70m rope-or at least ours. Please be careful suggesting you can.
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jun 22, 2014

fun, solid line. We did it in two as well, and with a bit of runout on easy terrain on the second pitch, the rope drag wasn't bad at all...if you face climb frequently and are comfortable to that kind of exposure, then I would suggest this route is no harder than 5.8.
By Jordan Collins
From: South Lake Tahoe
Jul 14, 2014

2nd & 3rd pitches have like 5 pieces of fixed gear. Yellow alien, BD #4, Grey TCU, and a few more. You can not carry those pieces. :) BTW we did it in 2 pitches with a 60. Belay about fifteen feet above that first roof and then climb to the top. Second pitch is a super long pitch so bring those extendo's. Belay off the tree or if your as stretched as we were you can belay right at the top out with a #3 BD and 2 #1 BD's in a cool little crack 5 feet past the edge. Good dike climbing with a FEW crack moves.
By Paul Zander
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 12, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I did not find any fixed cams or nuts on this climb today. It was a nice cool, cloudy and breezy August day, with not a single other party on the route.
By Seth Hogan
From: Frisco, Co
Jul 5, 2015

Very sustained route, with somewhat tricky gear. Solid lead. Use sunscreen.
By klane
Jul 28, 2015

First pitch takes amazing gear--be sure to bring your stoppers. if your shorter than 5'6" the crux will be in the first 20 ft where you have to do a little dyno to an excellent hold. But the gear is good and the rock is solid--go for it! The second pitch isn't as straight forward and offers more thoughtful gear placements as well as climbing.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 11, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great climb, and the route met our (high) expectations.

Gear seemed plentiful and not the least bit tricky to me... and I am a wimp and place lots of gear. I do carry offset nuts, so perhaps those helped.
By jthmmdom
Dec 13, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I was really happy to get on this route. The first 15 feet involve a few awkward moves, but it is definitely reasonable. My partner and I did the route in 2 pitches with a 70.
By cliffmama
May 12, 2016

Question: I'm a Gunks climber, so I suck at crack climbing. Would you give this a G rating for gear? Are there decent features on the face to use as well for most of the climb? From the pics, it looks like there are dikes and other features for feet. Looking forward to getting out there on that fine, fine rock!
By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
May 12, 2016

supertopo.com/rock-climbing/La...
By Wes P
From: Reno, NV
May 16, 2016

AMAZING CLIMB. PERIOD.

Did it in three pitches with 60 meter to avoid the horrible rope drag. Building an anchor for the 2nd pitch belay is not optimal. I did it right under the big roof where there is a bomber BD #2 placement. I also placed a good BD #1 and an okay BD #0.1.

BD #3 protects crux on pitch 1.

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