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Paul's Boutique 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Cam Burns, Mike Schillaci
Season: year round
Page Views: 811
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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"Paul's Boutique" with a sweet view in the backgro...

Description 

Very nice arete route with hard, thin moves down low to more enjoyable climbing above on the arete. Hit a neat mono to undercling next to the second bolt in a pocket that feels really sharp if you use more than one finger and crank to a good ledge on the arete. Stay on the arete using nice holds on both sides of the arete to the anchor. The route tends to be dirty after big storms as it is a natural run-off line during rain storms.
While it's rated 5.11b, it's not nearly as sustained nor difficult as other classic White Rock arete routes like Wailing Banshees or Flesh-Eating Gnats.

Location 

The first prominent bolted arete line you'll find when you climb up on the lower boulder/wall. (That's not a great sentence but it'll make sense when you're down there. I think.) Shown as route number 5 on the Overlook route topo photo. Accessed by the easy scrambling on top of the Lower Buttress.

Protection 

6 bolts to bolted anchor. All of the hangers and most of the bolts on the route have been replaced between 2012 and 2013.


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By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Dec 4, 2009
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

"Paul's Boutique" doesn't get climbed too often because of the cruxy (and unnerving) second clip, but it is a worthy route. I'll give it three stars if the bolts/anchors ever get replaced (I'd be happy to help with that).

If you aren't up for leading it, it is easy to set up a TR by traversing from the "Left Headwall Crack" anchors (clipping the PB anchors as a directional, of course).
By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Jun 9, 2011

This route would probably get climbed more if the bolts were up to today's standards. But sheet metal hangars, spinning nuts, and some thin bolts can be unnerving.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 27, 2011

The first four hangers have been upgraded to Petzl steel hangers (no spinners anymore!) I'm no metallurgist, but the bolts appeared to be in good shape with little to no signs of rust. Most were sleeve bolts so I could pull out and inspect the bolts themselves but not the sleeves and cones, of course.

The fifth bolt, with the worst-looking SMC hanger, is also a sleeve bolt but the sleeve and cone are spinning in the hole so I couldn't remove the bolt/hanger. Thus, it hasn't been upgraded yet. I suspect it'll require drilling a new hole nearby and then working to remove this one with a lot of elbow grease and a crowbar.
The climbing is easier up there, though, and even in the unlikely event of a full bolt/hanger failure in a fall, the climber will still be plenty off the deck.

We also beefed up the anchor a bit and added lowering biners.

Edit 1/14/2012: We were able to remove the fifth bolt, but not the sleeve so we hammered it back into the hole and drilled a new bolt placement a few inches lower.
By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Aug 21, 2013

And, yup, Jason has my encouragement on the upgrades he's doing late summer 2013. Hamster.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 21, 2013

Thanks Cam. I hope to get to the bolt replacement and relocations soon. The route is currently covered in dried dirt from the big rain storms White Rock experienced a month or so ago.
By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Oct 24, 2013

Still horribly dirty; scary first bolt with spinning hanger; glad I didn't lead it; plenty of TR equipment on top.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 17, 2013

I finally got to fixing up the lower part of the route yesterday. I pulled the spinner first bolt out and replaced it with a new bolt a bit higher than where it was. I also added a lower first bolt and moved the now third bolt over to the right a bit so it doesn't interfere with the arete holds. The route now has six bolts. And it's not terribly dirty anymore. The more I climb this line, the more I enjoy it. Great arete climbing.
By Jason Young
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 26, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I just saw the new bolt-job today. Awesome!