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Routes in South/East side

5.8 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bosker Boozeroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Box Overhang Left T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Box Overhang Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boy What Nice Fellows T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cholla Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cholla Wall T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face Off S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holy Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Holy Wall S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Len's Roof T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
M.C. Epic T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nice Guys Finish Last S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Exit S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overture TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Paul's Boutique S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polly's Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
RDD Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Robot City S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 21 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sensuous S T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thief in Time S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thorazine Dream S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Elevation: 6,400 ft
GPS: 35.827, -106.179 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 16,610 total, 127/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

Description

Sunny and warm in the morning through early afternoon. Many great bolted face routes and enjoyable gear-protected crack routes to bolted anchors. Climbing here on winter mornings is very pleasant.

Top ropes can be set up from the top on almost all the routes on this wall.

The climbs are numbered from left to right, in the order you'll pass them on the approach, and coincide with the

Getting There

Follow directions for the main area, The Overlook.

35 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: South/East side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South/East side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headwall Crack Left
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Polly's Crack
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Headwall Crack Right
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cholla Crack
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holy Wall
Sport, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Cholla Wall
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Ou…
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's)
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bosker Boozeroo
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Way Beyond Zebra
Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Paul's Boutique
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nice Guys Finish Last
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Double Vision / Ream Dream
Sport, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Thorazine Dream
Sport, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Face Off
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Headwall Crack Left 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Polly's Crack 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Headwall Crack Right 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Cholla Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Holy Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Cholla Wall 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Boy What Assholes (You Guys… 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at… 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Bosker Boozeroo 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Way Beyond Zebra 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Paul's Boutique 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Nice Guys Finish Last 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Double Vision / Ream Dream 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
Thorazine Dream 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
Face Off 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in South/East side »

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Photos

two quick-draw style anchors found at the top of the cliff between Way Beyond Zebra and Face Off. Holler at me on my phone if you can describe them to me. 5054129605. Call or Text is fine. Feb 19, 2016
I found some quickdraws on the anchors for Box Overhang Right this past Saturday. If these belong to you, let me know. Jan 9, 2012
Orlando  
Try stainless steel zip ties, available at most hardware stores. They're kinda expensive (maybe a buck each?) but work well and should last the life of the carabiner. Cheers. Feb 25, 2011
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
Hey Owen, I've applied both types and find the zip ties degrade and crack pretty quickly. The bailing wire doesn't negatively impact the chains or biners in any fashion and lasts longer. Thankfully, I believe folks have finally understood that the biners are "fixed" and they've stopped disappearing. It just took a little while for that mindset to set in. Also, spray painting the biners an ugly rust color helped in that the biners were far less appealing that way. And they are more cammoed so they blend in with the rock better--less visually annoying. Feb 25, 2011
Owen Darrow
Garmisch,
Owen Darrow   Garmisch,
I like Jason's idea about putting wire around the biners to make sure people know they're suppose to be there but maybe a zip tie will work better because it wont scrape and wear down the metal on the biner like wire will. Feb 23, 2011
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
Pretty damn weird, Daniel. I've been meaning to use bailing wire to put fix the biners to the chains. It won't stop the determined folks but at least it'll show the biners are supposed to be there and not "booty". Jan 11, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
Unfortunately it has happened again! Leaver biners gone from Face Off, Way Beyond Zebra, Thorazine Dream, Ream Dream, and possibly more. I found six carabiners at the base of Way Beyond Zebra, two of which I am positive are the ones I put on Thorazine Dream. The other four I believe are the pairs from Face Off and Way Beyond Zebra. I have no idea where the ones are for Ream Dream. Anyways I put mine back on Thorazine Dream and two back on Face Off. I couldn't reach the anchors for Way Beyond Zebra from the top, but next time I climb it I will put those final two back. Hopefully this will happen some time this week. I guess it is lucky that these people that are stealing the biners are sometimes forgetful and left some of their 'booty' at the bottom! Or else they left them (as litter) on purpose?!?

Edit: I put the carabiners back on Way Beyond Zebra today. Jan 11, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
Thanks to the climber that donated "fixed" carabiners on Double Vision / Ream Dream, Way Beyond Zebra, and Face Off recently. Let's hope some naive climber doesn't see them and think he scored some bootie (like the last time this occurred on Way Beyond Zebra.) Dec 13, 2008

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