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Routes in South/East side

5.8 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bosker Boozeroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Box Overhang Left T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Box Overhang Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boy What Nice Fellows T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cholla Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cholla Wall T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face Off S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holy Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Holy Wall S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Len's Roof T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
M.C. Epic T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nice Guys Finish Last S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Exit S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overture TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Paul's Boutique S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polly's Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
RDD Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Robot City S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 21 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sensuous S T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thief in Time S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thorazine Dream S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Walt Wehner and Jason Chen
Page Views: 635 total, 5/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Apr 3, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Fun crux sequence, but definitely a one-move-wonder type of route. As it is not very sustained, "Donde Estan Mis Pantalones" seemed a little easier to me than most other routes at the grade in White Rock.

The first bolt is pretty useless - it should have been moved about four feet up onto a solid looking portion of the roof. Mental crux is reaching the high second bolt after some tricky moves. Breath easier, then fire through a not-so-obvious sequence that moves left and back right to a bomber rest near the third bolt. Then climb the fun, relatively clean 5.9ish face to the chains.

Try not to grab either crack.

Location

Left of Box Overhang Left

Protection

6 bolts to a bolted anchor.

Photos

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J tot
Tempe, AZ
J tot   Tempe, AZ
I think the crux move is enjoyable and bouldery, and the top section feels very remote and alone in that your belayer can't see you, the bolts are a little run out, and the chalk washes off.

Grade this route based on the crux and people should appreciate it a little more. Right at the upper end of 5.11 Jul 18, 2011
Wa3lt
 
Wa3lt  
 
This was the first route I ever bolted, with Jason Chen. It's a total squeeze job, and not sustained at all. That said, if anyone wants to move the first bolt, feel free. Mar 21, 2009