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Routes in South/East side

5.8 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bosker Boozeroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Box Overhang Left T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Box Overhang Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boy What Nice Fellows T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cholla Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cholla Wall T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face Off S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holy Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Holy Wall S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Len's Roof T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
M.C. Epic T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nice Guys Finish Last S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Exit S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overture TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Paul's Boutique S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polly's Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
RDD Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Robot City S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 21 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sensuous S T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thief in Time S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thorazine Dream S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Chris Vandiver, Lee Sheftel & Rick Smith, 10/89
Page Views: 1,002 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

As the name implies, the crux of the route is the exit to the anchor. If the anchor was at the lip, the route would likely be rated 5.11.

Slabby, runout edge climbing on 5.7ish terrain to the way-high (15') first bolt leads to 5.10ish climbing up to the hard, overhanging finishing headwall. The crux is pulling over the top to the very highly placed anchors.

This route doesn't see much traffic and tends to stay very dirty because it's a natural rain run-off line.

Location

Bolted line in the middle of the face left of the Cholla Wall face route. The steep, overhanging headwall at the top is obvious. Shown as route number 7 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection

5 bolts to bolted anchor. The overhanging crux is very well protected. Watch out for the z-clip!

Photos

Sky Sjue
Santa Fe
Sky Sjue   Santa Fe
Led it today and I liked it. There was some dirt but it wasn't bad.

Why clip the chains before fully pulling over the lip? There were a few hard but well-protected moves, then the anchors were easy to clip from the top. I thought it was exhilirating and fun; can't wait to give it another go in the pursuit of a clean send.

That first bolt sure is high! Jul 4, 2012
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12b
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12b
Admittedly, I had written off "No Exit" as dumb for a while, but the crux boulder problem with the mono-to-mono move culminating with the throw at the end, is really fun and is out of character for White Rock. I'll agree that the lower half sucks (especially when its dirty), and also agree it seems hard for the grade to me as well (harder than Face Off and the popular 12a's at BONP), though perhaps it's just not my style.

I think my beta for the crux clips is different. I clip the 2nd-to-last bolt from below, leaning to the right from the obvious crack/seam. I clip the last bolt at waist-level after reaching the decent hold at the lip. Clip the chains after throwing to the fin just left of the chains, rather than trying to reach it from the sloper lower down. If you're unlucky or didn't plan for it, the left anchor chain can sometimes be frustratingly in the way on this final move. Hope this helps. Mar 12, 2012
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12a
I don't recall there being any need to clip off of any monos on this one. I do remember the mono, but if I recall correctly, you can clip without much trouble using the sidepull off to the right (the sidepull consists of the left side of a rounded hueco). I think 12a is about right. I think Face Off is more difficult and though I have not been on this in years, I would say that the boulder problem is no harder than V4, which puts it right at 12a. The D'Antonio Approach has a boulder problem at the bottom that is more difficult than No Exit and that route is also 12a, so I dunno, 12a seems fair.

And no, hanging a four foot draw does not count....you have to clip off the 'baby butt' sloper at the top. May 26, 2010
Dave Wachter  
 
Somebody sell me on this route. As far as I can tell based on 2 uninspired go's on lead, it's a mediocre pile of devious 5.10 for maybe 20 feet, then a poorly (yet overly) bolted 10' v5 boulder problem with an obligate tweaky clip off a mono (to protect a fall onto slab). The final awkward 5.12+ effort to clip the chains off miserable slopers removes all remaining aesthetic.
A recipe for injury if you ask me, and a less proud send than the pink-tape route in the gym. May 4, 2010
Dave Wachter  
 
12a my ass Apr 18, 2010
Wa3lt
  5.12b
Wa3lt  
  5.12b
I've always thought this was quite hard for the grade. The finish (IMO) is a solid V5 boulder problem, though you get a great rest before doing it.

I've seen people pre-clip the anchors with 4+' long "draws" to avoid the last cruxy bits. Sep 23, 2009