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Routes in South/East side

5.8 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bosker Boozeroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Box Overhang Left T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Box Overhang Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boy What Nice Fellows T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cholla Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cholla Wall T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face Off S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holy Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Holy Wall S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Len's Roof T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
M.C. Epic T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nice Guys Finish Last S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Exit S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overture TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Paul's Boutique S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polly's Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
RDD Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Robot City S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 21 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sensuous S T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thief in Time S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thorazine Dream S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,915 total, 15/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Apr 3, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This "5.8 Crack" is listed in the guidebooks as the crack in the corner just right of Boy What Assholes..., but no one ever climbs it. That's because it's dirty, hard to protect at the crux, (which is a bulge 3/4" of the way up), has crumbly suspect rock for much of its length, because the crux is by most measures harder than its listed 5.8 grade, and because it doesn't have a fixed bolted anchor for toproping like most at the Overlook. If you're one of those people who needs to climb everything at White Rock: tie in and give this right-facing corner a run. Begin just right of Boy What Assholes..., scramble up choss, continue up easy hand crack to an overhanging bulge where the crack thins to a seam. Tenuous liebacking on crumbly rock gets you past this crux, which is easier than it looks.

Protection

Rack from RPs to 3". No bolted anchor. Consider stepping left to the Boy What Assholes anchor at the top.

Photos

Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
  5.9 PG13
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
  5.9 PG13
Not my stopper.

I imagine this route is good practice for the Black. Jan 28, 2011
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.9 PG13
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.9 PG13
I didn't try to sell anyone on this climb.

I guess I meant: it has the feel of a climb harder than 5.8, and the pro at the crux is below you, small, or weird. Maybe it's the gear or the crumbly rock, but the crux section looks improbable and you stare at it for a while, then you actually commit to it, and it's not too bad. Just my impression. I'd say it's harder than Headwall Right Crack, or Cholla Crack, but easier than Holy Crack.

Was the stopper I retrieved from this crack last weekend yours? My partner has it. We can get it back to you if it's yours. Jan 28, 2011
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
  5.9 PG13
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
  5.9 PG13
Kinda a scary, sandbagged lead through that crumbly crux, what with the best pro several feet below your heels and a not-good landing zone. Maybe some tricams would have taken the spice out of the crux bulge, but then you'd lose the use of some critical sidepull pockets. But, I was warned.

GP: "the crux is by most measures harder than its listed 5.8 grade", versus "this crux, which is easier than it looks".
So, which is it? ;)
I vote: harder! ...or, both? I guess they're not mutually exclusive statements. Jan 28, 2011