Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 870 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

The obvious corner route to the right of Bosker. A little dirty and loose down low but decent up higher.

Location

This is the crack/chimney just right of Bosker Boozeroo. Shown as route number 2 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection

Gear to number 2 and 3 camalots to bolted anchor.

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10d
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10d
There are 2 crack climbs right of Bosker Boozeroos. Both of these cracks have sections of wide crack near their start.
The 1st crack just right of Boozeroos is an open book, about 5.8, not listed in the guides. This would be between #1 and #2 in the Jett/Samet topo below.
The 2nd crack to the right is the 5.10+ climb marked as "Squeeze Chimney 5.10+" in the guidebooks. It is a splitter slot-to-smaller-crack on the smooth face right of the corner. This crack angles left to the corner near the top. Jemez Rock describes it similarly. This line is marked as #2 in the Jett/Samet guide topo, copied below.
Both climbs can be done from the same anchor.
Jan 22, 2011
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.8
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.8
Good information, George. I suspect the real "Squeeze Chimney" route is the 5.8 corner route. I've changed the rating here on this route to 5.8 to clear up any confusion. "Boy What Nice Fellows" is apparently the lightning-bolt crack you describe as 10+ in your comment here but I don't think it's really 11b... Jan 24, 2011