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Routes in South/East side
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5.8 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bosker Boozeroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Box Overhang Left T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Box Overhang Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Boy What Nice Fellows T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Captain Smarmbag T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cholla Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cholla Wall T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Face Off S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Headwall Crack Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Headwall Crack Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Holy Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Holy Wall S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Jewish Space Laser S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Land's End TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Len's Roof T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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M.C. Epic T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Narcissistic Dream T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nice Guys Finish Last S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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No Exit S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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On Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Overture TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Paul's Boutique S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Polly's Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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RDD Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Reigning Rainbows S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Robot City S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Route 21 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sensuous S T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Thief in Time S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Thorazine Dream S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Unnamed S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 35.82733, -106.17868 |
| FA: | Chris Vandiver, Lee Sheftel |
| Page Views: | 1,898 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
The steep face just right of Polly's Crack. Very thin, very pumpy face climbing on small holds. Historically, the route started up the easy crack to the right (RDD Crack), requiring gear or an easy bit of soloing. In December 2023, a 5.10+, two-bolt direct start was added directly below the steep face by Jason. This adds fun movement to the climb and negates the need to start up the neighboring crack route.
Climb past these two glue-in bolts on somewhat chossy rock to the ledge. At the ledge, clip another new bolt which serves as a rope management bolt to keep the climber from getting flossed during a fall. Make a couple moves up the easy crack to the right to reach left to clip the high bolt protecting the crux. Climb back down to the ledge. Fire straight up on poor holds for the bouldery crux and keep cranking up the face.
Climbing left of the bolt line from the big ledge, using the arete, keeps the grade around 5.12b.
Location
The bolted face immediately right of "Polly's Crack". Shown as route number 17 on the Overlook route topo photo.
Protection
Historically, the route started up the easy crack to the right (RDD Crack), requiring thin hands/hands gear or an easy bit of soloing. In December 2023, a 5.10+, two-bolt direct start was added by Jason H. directly below the steep face. A rope management bolt at the ledge was also added to minimized "crotch flossing" during a fall at the crux. The route is a total of eight bolts to the two-bolt anchor if done this way.
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