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Routes in South/East side

5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bosker Boozeroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Box Overhang Left T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Box Overhang Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boy What Nice Fellows T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cholla Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cholla Wall T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face Off S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holy Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Holy Wall S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Len's Roof T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
M.C. Epic T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nice Guys Finish Last S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Exit S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overture TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Paul's Boutique S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polly's Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
RDD Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Robot City S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 21 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sensuous S T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thief in Time S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thorazine Dream S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Chris Vandiver, Lee Sheftel
Page Views: 819 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

The steep face just right of Polly's Crack. Very thin, very pumpy face climbing on small holds. Supposedly grabbing the left edge of the face makes it "only" 5.12b.

Location

The bolted face immediately right of "Polly's Crack". Shown as route number 17 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection

Gear down low in the easy crack to gain the ledge. Then 5 bolts to bolted anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12
Devin and I led this tonight, though we didn't send, our take was more favorable than that of the above posters. I'd do it again:
-Few will bother because it needs trad gear and is pretty hard, but if you've sent the other 11s & 12s on this side of the Overlook, do consider going up there.
-It's 5 bolts (not 6 as listed in the book) to a 2-bolt anchor (no chains, but easy to grab your draws from the top). And, you will probably place 2-3 cams from #0.75 camalot to #3 camalot (extend these with shoulder length runners) on the 5.8 crack that gains the ledge prior to the first bolt.
-Straight up the face (12d) is contrived and involves thin edges and shallow or downsloping pockets, and I couldn't find the patience or strength to figure it out. However, it's the hardest sport climb at White Rock, giving it value as a old-school-style testpiece of sorts.
-If you're not that technical and crimp-honed, step left and climb the arete (12b) leaning off it to clip the same bolts. We found this balancey and rather fun, with a powerful finishing move to jugs. If it were (a) fully bolted, and (b) more people were aware of the natural line (the 12b arete), I think this climb would see more traffic. Aug 9, 2017
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12d
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12d
Agreed. I got on this once and I thought it was awkward and semi-painful. Didn't bother again after that. The upper face itself is pretty though. Too bad it doesn't climb better. Apr 13, 2010
Wa3lt
 
Wa3lt  
 
I could never for the life of me figure out where this route went. It's pretty hard, depending on where you go, but only for a move or two, and there's no well-defined line. Basically, a mediocre boulder problem separated by choss below and easy climbing above.

This is another early 90s route bolted by folks who *really* wanted to climb 5.13 but couldn't find anything hard enough in WR. They ended up bolting anything with hard moves they could find, quality be damned. I don't think I've every seen anyone even attempt this (yours truly being the exception), and for good reason. Sep 23, 2009