Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Burns, Schillaci, Fehlau (perhaps TR'd earlier by Barlow?)
Page Views: 1,622 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Thin face climbing that requires more technique and trust than power. Crux comes around last bolt and to the anchors. The route can be started from atop the boulder/wall or from below the boulder/wall. Starting down low makes for a run-out to the first bolt but the climbing is fairly easy.

Location

Face route right of Holy Wall and Holy Crack. Shown as route number 14 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection

Five bolts to chain anchor. Accessed by the easy scrambling on top of the Lower Buttress below the main wall. Anchor can be reached from the top to set a TR if you're really desperate and cautious but best to sling the boulders for a TR anchor.

Photos

The fixed biners are getting severely warn down on this route's anchors. Any suggestions for what biners to use when replacing these ones? Mar 12, 2011
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10c
Excellent that you want to replace them, Curt. Thanks. Obviously, steel biners are best but expensive. Any type of aluminum biner works but, as you've seen, will wear pretty quickly. Bent gate biners are nice and easier for clipping but not required.
I'm in the habit of using one steel, one aluminum with the steel preferably taking most of the load. I have some nice steel biners (there's one on Holy Wall now) that I'll be glad to place one on this route next time I'm there. Mar 12, 2011