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Routes in South/East side

5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bosker Boozeroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Box Overhang Left T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Box Overhang Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boy What Nice Fellows T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cholla Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cholla Wall T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face Off S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holy Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Holy Wall S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Len's Roof T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
M.C. Epic T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nice Guys Finish Last S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Exit S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overture TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Paul's Boutique S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polly's Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
RDD Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Robot City S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 21 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sensuous S T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thief in Time S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thorazine Dream S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Cam Burns, Mike Schillaci
Page Views: 1,219 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Very nice arete route with hard, thin moves down low to more enjoyable climbing above on the arete. Hit a neat mono to undercling next to the second bolt in a pocket that feels really sharp if you use more than one finger and crank to a good ledge on the arete. Stay on the arete using nice holds on both sides of the arete to the anchor. The route tends to be dirty after big storms as it is a natural run-off line during rain storms.
While it's rated 5.11b, it's not nearly as sustained nor difficult as other classic White Rock arete routes like Wailing Banshees or Flesh-Eating Gnats.

Location

The first prominent bolted arete line you'll find when you climb up on the lower boulder/wall. (That's not a great sentence but it'll make sense when you're down there. I think.) Shown as route number 5 on the Overlook route topo photo. Accessed by the easy scrambling on top of the Lower Buttress.

Protection

6 bolts to bolted anchor. All of the hangers and most of the bolts on the route have been replaced between 2012 and 2013.

Photos

Loren Bunjes  
 
Had a lovely time at this crag this Sunday (July 2, 2017). **Important** Bolt 3 or 4 (can not remember now) was loose enough to spin a little. I didn't have any tools with me at the time, so to whom it may concern... Jul 3, 2017
Jason Young
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11
Jason Young   Los Alamos, NM
  5.11
I just saw the new bolt-job today. Awesome! Jan 26, 2014
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
I finally got to fixing up the lower part of the route yesterday. I pulled the spinner first bolt out and replaced it with a new bolt a bit higher than where it was. I also added a lower first bolt and moved the now third bolt over to the right a bit so it doesn't interfere with the arete holds. The route now has six bolts. And it's not terribly dirty anymore. The more I climb this line, the more I enjoy it. Great arete climbing. Nov 17, 2013
Ben Burnett
Colorado
 
Ben Burnett   Colorado
 
Still horribly dirty; scary first bolt with spinning hanger; glad I didn't lead it; plenty of TR equipment on top. Oct 24, 2013
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
Thanks Cam. I hope to get to the bolt replacement and relocations soon. The route is currently covered in dried dirt from the big rain storms White Rock experienced a month or so ago. Aug 21, 2013
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
The first four hangers have been upgraded to Petzl steel hangers (no spinners anymore!) I'm no metallurgist, but the bolts appeared to be in good shape with little to no signs of rust. Most were sleeve bolts so I could pull out and inspect the bolts themselves but not the sleeves and cones, of course.

The fifth bolt, with the worst-looking SMC hanger, is also a sleeve bolt but the sleeve and cone are spinning in the hole so I couldn't remove the bolt/hanger. Thus, it hasn't been upgraded yet. I suspect it'll require drilling a new hole nearby and then working to remove this one with a lot of elbow grease and a crowbar.
The climbing is easier up there, though, and even in the unlikely event of a full bolt/hanger failure in a fall, the climber will still be plenty off the deck.

We also beefed up the anchor a bit and added lowering biners.

Edit 1/14/2012: We were able to remove the fifth bolt, but not the sleeve so we hammered it back into the hole and drilled a new bolt placement a few inches lower. Nov 27, 2011
J tot
Tempe, AZ
 
J tot   Tempe, AZ
 
This route would probably get climbed more if the bolts were up to today's standards. But sheet metal hangars, spinning nuts, and some thin bolts can be unnerving. Jun 9, 2011
Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.11a/b
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.11a/b
"Paul's Boutique" doesn't get climbed too often because of the cruxy (and unnerving) second clip, but it is a worthy route. I'll give it three stars if the bolts/anchors ever get replaced (I'd be happy to help with that).

If you aren't up for leading it, it is easy to set up a TR by traversing from the "Left Headwall Crack" anchors (clipping the PB anchors as a directional, of course). Dec 4, 2009