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Routes in South/East side

5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bosker Boozeroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Box Overhang Left T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Box Overhang Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boy What Nice Fellows T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cholla Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cholla Wall T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face Off S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holy Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Holy Wall S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Len's Roof T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
M.C. Epic T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nice Guys Finish Last S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Exit S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overture TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Paul's Boutique S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polly's Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
RDD Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Robot City S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 21 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sensuous S T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thief in Time S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thorazine Dream S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Polly Hessing, 1971 ?
Page Views: 2,062 total, 16/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

A sweet dihedral/open book crack route. Nice fingers and hands with enjoyable stemming all the way. Start up less than desirable rock and pull a tough bulge/roof to get established in the corner. Stem and jam your way up.

Location

The obvious corner right of Way Beyond Zebra. Shown as route number 16 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection

Small to large nuts and cams. Big stuff at top just before the bolt/hanger anchors. You'll need long slings for the anchor bolts and collect them from the top on your way out. Can be set as TR from the top.

Photos

Jeffrey Hyman
Santa Fe, New Mexico
  5.8
Jeffrey Hyman   Santa Fe, New Mexico
  5.8
The anchor for this route is only bolts and hangers, there are no chains or rap rings. If you lead the route, then you have to leave gear (long slings) and gather them on the way out. Oct 19, 2014
henrik  
Found some slings at the anchors on the climb last thursday (June 24th). We meant to leave them there but not everyone knew this so they ended up in one of our bags anyway. If you know who left them there send me an email and I'll get them back to you.
internet@henriksandin.se

Cheers
HS Jun 28, 2010
Wa3lt
 
Wa3lt  
 
Best 5.8 in White Rock, IMO. Sep 23, 2009
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.8
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.8
And if you're not comfortable with that bit of runout, another option many folks take is move left and clip the anchors for Way Beyond Zebra. It'll make cleaning the gear on your way back down a little more difficult though. Mar 5, 2009
Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.8+
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.8+
Take a #4 (or #5?) or be prepared for a decent run out to the anchor bolts. Although the terrain is pretty easy, I wouldn't want to take a big fall in a corner that tight.

Sustained 5.8 from the word go, with fun stemming and jamming and great pro. One of the best cracks at the grade in White Rock, IMO. Mar 4, 2009