Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Polly Hessing, 1971 ?
Page Views: 2,266 total · 16/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

A sweet dihedral/open book crack route. Nice fingers and hands with enjoyable stemming all the way. Start up less than desirable rock and pull a tough bulge/roof to get established in the corner. Stem and jam your way up.

Location

The obvious corner right of Way Beyond Zebra. Shown as route number 16 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection

Small to large nuts and cams. Big stuff at top just before the bolt/hanger anchors. You'll need long slings for the anchor bolts and collect them from the top on your way out. Can be set as TR from the top.

Photos

Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.8+
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.8+
Take a #4 (or #5?) or be prepared for a decent run out to the anchor bolts. Although the terrain is pretty easy, I wouldn't want to take a big fall in a corner that tight.

Sustained 5.8 from the word go, with fun stemming and jamming and great pro. One of the best cracks at the grade in White Rock, IMO. Mar 4, 2009
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.8
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.8
And if you're not comfortable with that bit of runout, another option many folks take is move left and clip the anchors for Way Beyond Zebra. It'll make cleaning the gear on your way back down a little more difficult though. Mar 5, 2009
Wa3lt
 
Wa3lt  
 
Best 5.8 in White Rock, IMO. Sep 23, 2009
henrik  
Found some slings at the anchors on the climb last thursday (June 24th). We meant to leave them there but not everyone knew this so they ended up in one of our bags anyway. If you know who left them there send me an email and I'll get them back to you.
internet@henriksandin.se

Cheers
HS Jun 28, 2010
Jeffrey Hyman
Santa Fe, New Mexico
  5.8
Jeffrey Hyman   Santa Fe, New Mexico
  5.8
The anchor for this route is only bolts and hangers, there are no chains or rap rings. If you lead the route, then you have to leave gear (long slings) and gather them on the way out. Oct 19, 2014