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Routes in South/East side

5.8 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bosker Boozeroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Box Overhang Left T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Box Overhang Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boy What Nice Fellows T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cholla Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cholla Wall T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face Off S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holy Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Holy Wall S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Len's Roof T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
M.C. Epic T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nice Guys Finish Last S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Exit S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overture TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Paul's Boutique S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polly's Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
RDD Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Robot City S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 21 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sensuous S T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thief in Time S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thorazine Dream S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 55 ft
FA: Burns, Fehlau
Page Views: 3,222 total, 25/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

An extremely pocketed and chalked-up face route with thin feet past the first bolt and nice, steep climbing above. Bolt line moves right-ish but the route can be climbed left of the bolt line at about the same grade.
Almost too many pockets to choose from!

Location

The very obvious pocketed route with tons of chalked up holds. Shown as route number 12 on the Overlook route topo photo. Accessed by the easy scrambling on top of the Lower Buttress.

Protection

5 bolts to chain anchors. Note there are two sets of anchors for this climb--one can be accessed from the top for TRing and the other, lower chains, are used when leading.
Jason, you are the man! From myself and the extended community at large, THANK YOU! Nov 1, 2017
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
Justin B wrote:Just an FYI, the top chain links (the ones on the bolt hangars) have become quite worn.

Thanks for mentioning that. I took a look at the links last week and they I went back this evening to replace them.

I replaced the worn lap links with screw links, new chains and new lowering biners on both bolts. On the right bolt, I also swapped out the hanger. The left bolt is spinning in the hole so I could not get the hanger off. Instead, I dremel-cut the lap link off and added the new link/chains to the existing hanger. Oct 25, 2017
Just an FYI, the top chain links (the ones on the bolt hangars) have become quite worn. Oct 7, 2017
Luke Hetrick
Los Alamos
  5.10b
Luke Hetrick   Los Alamos
  5.10b
Lead this climb for the first time the other day and found it to be pretty fun. As mentioned in the other comments, although there is an abundance of hand holds, the feet is a bit more scarce after the first bolt and the hands feel worse than they really are. Best part of the climb was that the route line is generous meaning that you can ascend it left or right of the bolts. Was entertaining to climb it twice and realize that I took almost completely different routes up the same climb.

Jason Hundhausen mentioned it gets easier the more you climb it. This is very true as the abundance of hand holds threw me off when I lead it but when I TR it later, the climb was much easier as I knew where the better holds were. Apr 28, 2016
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
Earlier this summer someone used chalk to put a huge "X" above the fourth bolt. We checked it out last night. The bolt itself is fine but the hanger was an old thin SMC hanger. I replaced the hanger last night with a SS Pagan hanger. I tried hard to remove the chalk "X" but it's still visible. If you have a brush with you the next time you're on this route, please brush away that "X". Sep 29, 2010
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10b
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10b
Slightly easier if you use the crack to the left at the first crux (2nd to 3rd bolt), or a foot on the face left of that crack. One book says this reduces the rating to 5.9, though I think it's still probably 5.10- overall considering the pump at the sequency upper crux. Apr 5, 2010
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10a
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.10a
This is one of those routes that gets dramatically easier the more you climb it. So many pockets--all of which are massively chalked up--make it a challenging onsight. An excellent route though! Jul 2, 2007
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
this is a really fun warmup! However, it sees a lot of traffic, and feels really slick and greasy, so it feels insecure for the grade. Apr 4, 2007