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Routes in South/East side

5.8 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bosker Boozeroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Box Overhang Left T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Box Overhang Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boy What Nice Fellows T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cholla Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cholla Wall T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face Off S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holy Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Holy Wall S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Len's Roof T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
M.C. Epic T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nice Guys Finish Last S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Exit S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overture TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Paul's Boutique S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polly's Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
RDD Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Robot City S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 21 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sensuous S T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thief in Time S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thorazine Dream S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 65 ft
FA: Cam Burns, Steve Provonost, Mike Makely
Page Views: 1,927 total, 15/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

An awesome, steep face route. It is, dare I say, overbolted, making for a safe sport lead and great first 5.11 sport lead for the aspirant. Crux seems to be near the last bolt at the steepening terrain. The last bolt is often skipped by leaders not wanting to pump-out trying to clip it.
The route has two anchors--one set accessed from the top for TRing and one set lower for leading.

Location

This is the long face around the corner right of Dave's Face and left of Polly's Crack. Shown as route number 15 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection

8 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

Naomi Galinski
  5.11b
Naomi Galinski  
  5.11b
I was surprised by the amount of bolts as well. This was my last climb of the day after leading a bunch of hard things so maybe my rating of 11b is biased with tiredness. I skipped the last bolt since I had no energy left to clip something that is so close to the top anyway. Oct 28, 2011
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
If you continue to the 2nd anchor, you get a few more interesting moves, the guidebook says doing so is the difference between 11a and 11b. The rope drag when TRing/lowering off the high anchor is annoying though. My assumption is that the lower anchor was added after the climb was initially bolted to alleviate this, which resulted in the last bolt being quite close to the (lower) anchor.

I'd agree that stemming or using the crack to the right would make it less than 5.11. Dec 4, 2010
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a
This was my first 5.11 lead and even I was a starting to get annoyed with how many bolts I had to clip (I didn't feel bold enough to skip bolts though). Last bolt is definitely more trouble than its worth if you're going for the RP (I wasn't, so I clipped it). Still, this climb shouldn't be maligned merely for the spacing of its bolts; it's a great climb. Dec 21, 2008
Dave Wachter  
 
Safe lead? There's a difference between safe lead and overbolted. If you're not getting into the 5.11 grade 'cause you're scared of leader falls, this is your route, baby. Climbs well. Last bolt entirely unnecessary. Mar 4, 2008
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
sweet route, and definitely tightly bolted making for a safe lead. high crux. I was looking to depump, shimmied right, and stemmed to the right wall. I am told this is cheating, I thought it was smart climbing! way cool. Apr 4, 2007