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Routes in South/East side

5.8 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bosker Boozeroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Box Overhang Left T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Box Overhang Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boy What Nice Fellows T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cholla Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cholla Wall T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face Off S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holy Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Holy Wall S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Len's Roof T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
M.C. Epic T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nice Guys Finish Last S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Exit S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overture TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Paul's Boutique S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polly's Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
RDD Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Robot City S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 21 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sensuous S T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thief in Time S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thorazine Dream S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Lee Sheftel, Chris Vandiver & Rick Smith, 10/89
Page Views: 3,297 total · 24/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

27 Opinions

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A fantastic steep, thin face route. For most it requires a sequence. Careful not to tweak your fingers on this one.
The steep face is obvious with its chalk-marked, tiny holds.

Scramble up easy rock to the high first bolt and move up to the second bolt as the rock starts to steepen. Pull past the thin flake holds to a good two-finger pocket next to the third bolt. More thin, steep moves lead past the fourth bolt. It's sustained all the way to the sixth bolt but above that you finally get to rest before cruising the easier terrain to the top.


Steep face right of Thief in Time and "RDD Crack". Shown as route number 20 on the Overlook route topo photo.


7 bolts to a bolted anchor.


Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
Great route, might take a few tries to work out the sequence on this one. Also the name is a bit of a misnomer since for the 12a grade the arete is off in the middle of route, making things a little bit harder. Apr 4, 2007
Dave Wachter
Dave Wachter  
Really really cool crux section getting up to the pocketed face. Lots of stars from me. Mar 4, 2008
J. Albers
J. Albers   Colorado
"the arete is off"??? Hmmmmm. I have not been on this in years, but I don't remember the arete being "off". This isn't Devils Lake where there are rules problems, i.e. if you can reach the arete from the bolt line, then it is on. IMHO, this route gets the 12a grade for the bottom 3-4 bolts. The top where you might be interested in touching the arete is just pump time that keeps the route consistent. I don't think this changes the grade. Apr 13, 2010
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
Well this is what I had heard when doing this route several years ago from another climber. I'll have to check the guide to see if it mentions anything about the arete being off. I vaguely remember there being a move just past the crux where grabbing the arete did make a difference. Above where the arete becomes more rounded you are almost climbing on it however so this only holds true for where the arete is truly an arete.

While this isn't Devil's Lake I remember many of the lines at the Overlook being quite contrived, cruxin out on the face with an easy crack within reach. Double Vision, Holy Wall, Way Beyond Zebra, Donde Estan, On Beyond Zebra, to name a few looking at the descriptions and comments.

I haven't been on this in 5 years but I wonder if it isn't already quite soft for the 12a grade since this was my second 12a after the notoriously stiff (joking) Bolting Barbie.
Does the new guide give this 11d/12a?
At any rate this is a fun route and one of the best at the overlook regardless of the grade and any suspect holds. Apr 13, 2010
J. Albers
J. Albers   Colorado
Yeah, I understand what you are saying about the whole contrived bit at the Overlook. I always just climbed what was obvious...whether it was "on" or not. It is my personal opinion that Face Off is solidly 12a, if for no other reason than I think it is a bit harder than Thorazine which is pretty benchmark at 11d. Apr 13, 2010
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
To me, "Face Off" feels about as hard as the average 5.12a in LA/WR area. I might be alone in this, but I think "Face Off" is more like two letter grades harder than "Thorazine Dream".

As far as the arete is concerned, I would use whatever feels natural and go with it. It would be a shame to ruin your experience of what is probably the best sport route in White Rock with questions like: "Is this hold on?" . Apr 14, 2010
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
I suggest someone put some red tape on all the holds that are "on". :) Apr 14, 2010
Amy Jordan  
I thought "Face Off" was harder than "Monsterpiece." Apr 21, 2010
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
I have the same opinion as Amy. I got Monsterpiece in three or four tries but it took quite a bit more than that for me on Face Off. For me, Face Off is more sustained while Monsterpiece has the one hard crux move but the rest is more cruiser.

No matter, though, both routes are super fun. Apr 22, 2010
Naomi Galinski
Naomi Galinski  
This is a real 12a. My third 12a lead ever and I can say that there are no more excuses like 'that was a soft 12a'. There's nothing soft about Face Off and the string of crux moves are suuuuuuper fun - don't stop, keep moving. Definitely harder and more sustained than Monsterpiece Theater. Oct 28, 2011

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