Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 582 total · 4/month
Shared By: Mark Mathis on Apr 3, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

The crack route just right of Face Off is loose down low and low angle and easy up high.
Climb loose and easy choss down low. Steep moves over small or tricky-to-place gear lets you reach the start of a hand crack. Steep moves in the hand crack or to jugs on either side are powerful and let you reach a 2nd parallelling crack. It is easier above as the climb becomes much less steep.

Location

The crack to face route just right of "Face Off"

Protection

Usually toproped from bolted anchor.
Can be led with various gear from small nuts to hand-size cams. Creatively-placed micronuts, hexes, or tri-cams is helpful to protect the first hard move or two; then you get a good hand-size cam placement, followed by protectable finger/hand cracks.

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Mark Mathis
  5.10a
Mark Mathis  
  5.10a
Not the best route but one of my personal favorites. Similar in difficulty to "Holy Wall" but completely different (and with much less traffic). I would personally like to see some bolts on this route in the future (particularly down low before the crack starts). Apr 12, 2007