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Routes in South/East side

5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bosker Boozeroo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Box Overhang Left T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Box Overhang Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boy What Nice Fellows T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cholla Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cholla Wall T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Face Off S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holy Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Holy Wall S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Len's Roof T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
M.C. Epic T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nice Guys Finish Last S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Exit S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overture TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Paul's Boutique S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polly's Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
RDD Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Robot City S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route 21 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sensuous S T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thief in Time S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thorazine Dream S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 55 ft
FA: Peter Gram (December 1989)
Page Views: 1,069 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Climb up the face right of Box Overhang Right but stay on the face & arete and don't get tempted by the nice crack to the right. Mostly just top-roped or avoided. I haven't seen it led.

Location

On the face right of "Box Overhang Right". Shown as route number 27 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection

5 bolts to a two bolt anchor sans chains.

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12b
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12b
"On Beyond Zebra" is 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (bolt count in the books is off). No chains, but you can easily clean the anchor from the top while hiking out.

It's given an "R" for pro in some books, but that's obsolete info, as the 2nd bolt was added after the FA (and the FAist was involved in the process; and it was apparently rebolted as well). Now it is just minor runout on 5.8-ish terrain, a non-issue for anyone even considering 5.12 at White Rock.

It's rated 12c in "Jemez Rock"- I'll suggest the distinction between 12b and 12c might depend on how directly you stick to the bolt line at the crux (as I haven't sent any other 12c's at White Rock), and my best sequence involved using the arete. (I was happy to see the photos posted of the FA showing the arete to the left at the crux is "on", trying to go direct without the arete is really thin and quite hard.)

Samet's description is hilarious, describing the route as "silly", "premeditated", "contrived" and "stupid" (as if this is in contrast to most rock climbing?), but in any case, it's hardly a classic. Jun 2, 2016
I see Jason loaded up my slides. Thanks, Jason.
Pretty bloody bad quality images. Look like they were taken underwater.
BTW: Many WR routes were done on lead. Jul 17, 2008
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
A .12b bolted on lead! That's amazing. Please, share the pictures! Is there a good stance to put a bolt in before the crux? Jun 27, 2008
Bolted on lead, which was very interesting to watch/photograph. Jun 25, 2008