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Routes in Below The Old New Place

Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Color of My Potion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fat Boys Don't Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flesh-Eating Gnats S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Greg Shredder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inflight Movie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Instant Dogma S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
L Dopa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Shop Of Horrors S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Manic Nirvana S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Monsterpiece Theatre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oscar de La Cholla T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
P.M.S. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pathogenic Cysts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Polyester Terror T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Putterman Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ralph's Dilemma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph's Leisure Suit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ralph's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 22 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 24 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 25 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 26 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 27 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 31 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Route 32 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sardonic Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scandanavian Airlines S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Strong Urge to Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wailing Banshees S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 62 ft
FA: FA (toprope): Ralph Menikoff, Chris Foster, Norbert Ensslin-- late 1970s. Bolted, then led by: Tom MacFarlane, Brian Riepe-- May 1989
Page Views: 2,500 total, 19/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 18, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

A very sweet arete route just right of Adam Ant. Nice, positive pockets on both sides of the arete serve up great hands while little edges and points on the arete give it up for the feet. Be sure to look on both sides of the arete for the pockets. A small crux comes above the second bolt trying to get to the great ledge and then another crux heading to the chains on a hold that looks good from below but is not quite as positive as the lower holds.

Location

This route is the sharp arete just right of "Adam Ant". Shown as route 13 on Monomaniac's center routes photo.

Protection

4 bolts to shared chain anchors with "Adam Ant". The first bolt is way high up the route but the climbing to that point isn't too difficult and there's a good clip hold.
In 1989, my first summer in Los Alamos, I learned to climb this route with Miki Enoeda, a visiting Japanese chemist at the lab. I immediately realized the climb's abundant pockets would provide ample natural protection for a clean ascent; indeed, if the route was at an area with strong ground-up traditional ethics (like the Gunks) it would have been sent back in the seventies. But it was not till 24 years later, on March 18, 2013, my sixty-sixth birthday, that I finally got it together to accomplish this ascent. I'm a poor face climber who always struggles with this route, and not wanting to die in case of a tumble I rehearsed placing the pro on top rope. On my ground-up ascent I placed twelve pieces of gear (and of course ignored the bolts). I climbed on two 9 mm ropes, one for placements left of the arete and one for those right of the arete. The sketchiest pieces, unfortunately, are just before the first crux section between the first and second big ledges. I had a #3 orange Metolius wire in the large flared pocket right of the arete a few feet above the first ledge, a blue Metolius TCU in a horizontal slit about 1 foot left of the arete, and a black "tri-sham" in the same slit. Half way up the route is the second good ledge where one can get a two-hands-off rest by clever body positioning. At this ledge I placed four bomber pieces -- a red trisham, two wires, and a green alien. They had to be good because there was no way I was going to stop while climbing that last 15 overhanging feet of rock to fiddle with gear. If I plopped off from the final move of the climb I would take a long fall but not hit the ground. I messed up the final crux section somewhat by stepping too high and thus putting more force on my tired fingers, but it all ended well. A ground-up, on-sight, clean ascent of this route would be a proud achievement.

You get a great buzz from accomplishing a climb like this even if it's not a birthday present to yourself. It makes you think, what next … Flesh-eating Ants?, Scandinavian Airlines?, Monsterpiece Theatre??? Apr 25, 2013
Jason Young
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b/c
Jason Young   Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b/c
This is a really good route. Good idea on repositioning the anchors and replacing bolts. I like to do a more "direct" start from the bottom right. It could really use another bolt down low for this. May 2, 2012
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b
We moved the anchor shared by this climb and Adam Ant up about 5 feet. I think this provides a better and more aesthetic finish for both climbs, and allows for top-roping Adam Ant without taking big swings in the event of a fall at the crux.

On both routes, you now have to make a few more moves before clipping the anchors, but the original anchors bolts are still there, so you can clip them if you are feeling insecure (the climbing is relatively easy though). If you do choose to do this, it's probably a good idea to remove these draws on the way down if someone is going to top-rope the route. The anchor setup still isn't perfect, and if you have any suggestions, feel free to comment. Mar 27, 2011
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11b
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11b
This climb was bolted by the team of Tom McFarlane, Brian Riepe, Chris Pollard, and Peter Gram, according to Peter.
The last 2 bolts have been replaced recently. Thank Jason if you see him. Apr 2, 2010
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
 
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
 
I'm 210 lbs (I'm not fat! I'm big-boned!) and I aired onto the third bolt...and although it's kinda crooked, it actually feels very solid - certainly no reason to avoid this route IMO. I do agree though that it wouldn't hurt to replace it. As for getting to the (high) first bolt: it's easy to get to if you come in from the big ledge on the left - falling while trying to make this clip could get pretty ugly. Apr 30, 2008
Dave Wachter  
 
Awesome arete climbing. Difficult onsight from the last bolt to the anchors, but unless you're under 5'8", you shouldn't have to use any less-than-sinker pockets. Full credit stars. Mar 13, 2008
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11b
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11b
A bit of history: this route was first attempted with gear placements before there was consensus to bolt it, and that was before any anchors were put in. Might I note that two of the lead bolts could stand to be replaced(2nd and 3rd). You wouldn't really want to air on them. Hanging on them seemed ok. Nov 8, 2007