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Routes in Below The Old New Place

Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Color of My Potion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fat Boys Don't Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flesh-Eating Gnats S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Greg Shredder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inflight Movie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Instant Dogma S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
L Dopa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Shop Of Horrors S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manic Nirvana S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Monsterpiece Theatre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oscar de La Cholla T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
P.M.S. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pathogenic Cysts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Polyester Terror T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Putterman Cracks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ralph's Dilemma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph's Leisure Suit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ralph's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Route 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 22 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 24 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 25 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 26 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 27 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 31 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Route 32 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sardonic Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scandanavian Airlines S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Strong Urge to Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wailing Banshees S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Peter Gram, 7/89
Page Views: 2,352 total, 18/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This fine pocket-fest is the left route on a wide panel of stone that gets relatively early shade, and features 3 5.12a's. Begin up an easy slab to a high first bolt. Two more bolts of easy climbing and the wall rears up to a slight overhang. A good shake from killer pockets at the 4th bolt offer one last chance to recuperate before the crux. A set of heinously thin pockets lead up and right to another jug. A long reach heads back left to a horizontal break and a good rest. From here, hard-to-see, black polished crimps and a cool hole lead up and left to the anchor.

Location

3rd bolted route from the left.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 BA.
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12a
Video of Chuck Calef sending the route on gear days before his 69th birthday:

youtube.com/watch?v=FgQcZUR… Mar 24, 2016
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12a
I climbed MT again recently and I noticed that one of anchor bolts is an old bolt that is sealed with epoxy or glue. There are quite a number of bolts in the southern Sierra that sport this kind of setup; essentially, the bolter was trying to keep the elements out and prolong the life of the bolt. Unfortunately, the end result is that the epoxy actually holds the moisture in. When folks started rebolting to update hardware, they found that what looked like a decent bolt from the outside was actually a rusted, dangerous mess on the inside.

I know that there are locals doing hardware updates, and I just thought I would nominate this anchor as a candidate for a new bolt. If I were still local I would do it myself, but unfortunately I only occasionally get back to NM.
Cheers. Jan 5, 2011
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12a
Jason,

To answer your question about the hanger getting bent. I think what happens is that the nose of the biner actually gets stuck as you move past and when you fall it simply wedges into place and bends the hanger. When I came to rest after the fall, the biner was essentially in that exact position and no, the hanger was not loose. Here is another example of this happening (on the lowest bolt):

mountainproject.com/images/…

I'm not actually convinced that newer hangers will change this situation much at all. May 24, 2010
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12a
Those old SMC hangers definitely don't inspire confidence and I've recently replaced 8 of them down at BTONP on various routes.

I'm intrigued to learn more about how the hanger bent when you fell on it. It seems to me that even if the draw was clipped to the bolt as show in the photo you referenced, as the climber fell down past the bolt the carabiner would "flatten out" in orientation and pull on the bottom end of the hanger. Assuming the hanger is properly aligned on the bolt, there wouldn't be an issue.

However if the hanger was a bit loose and could stay orientated slightly sideways, I could see the carabiner staying a bit cattywompus and then torquing the hanger. I'd guess the older SMC hangers would be a lot more likely to get torqued like that given their elongated and narrow form-factor. My guess is that with more modern hangers the probability of a repeat of your incident is extremely low. Apr 14, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12a
I always thought this was a super fun route, albeit not super sustained. Walt is right, in that this thing is pretty sequential. I bent the sh*t out of the crux bolt hanger taking a fall on it. I came back the next day, sent the route (with extra gusto because I didn't want to fall on the old bent SMC hanger) and replaced the hanger on rappel (maybe 7 years ago?).

EDIT: In case anyone is wondering how I bent the hanger, you can see a picture of how the bolt was loaded by looking at the picture linked below. After this incident, I started clipping bolts in the opposite orientation to that shown in the photo.

mountainproject.com/images/… Apr 13, 2010
Wa3lt
 
Wa3lt  
 
Best route at BTONP, IMO. Crux is very sequential (which is unusual for White Rock). Mar 23, 2009
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12a
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
  5.12a
A great route with a pronounced crux! As described above requires a very long reach, probably more difficult for shorter climbers. Nov 5, 2007