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Routes in Below The Old New Place

Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Color of My Potion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fat Boys Don't Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flesh-Eating Gnats S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Greg Shredder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inflight Movie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Instant Dogma S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
L Dopa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Shop Of Horrors S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Manic Nirvana S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Monsterpiece Theatre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oscar de La Cholla T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
P.M.S. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pathogenic Cysts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Polyester Terror T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Putterman Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ralph's Dilemma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph's Leisure Suit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ralph's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 22 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 24 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 25 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 26 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 27 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 31 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Route 32 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sardonic Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scandanavian Airlines S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Strong Urge to Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wailing Banshees S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 612 total · 5/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

More sustained than its twin to the left, this great climb offers several hard moves on great rock. Begin the same as for Monsterpiece Theatre. At the 2nd bolt, make a hard right for the first bolt of this route. After clipping the LSOH's first bolt (third total) things get interesting. Some fancy footwork and a good mono lead up to improving holds and a pumpy sequence of continuous cranks. Never super hard, but it doesn't let up till you reach the smooth basalt near the top. After a well-earned shake, a few more balancey moves lead to the top.

Apparently folks used to approach this route via Polyester Terror, the crack to the right. The sport-climbers variation is described here. Rope drag isn't an issue.

Location

Right of Monsterpiece theater, shares first 2 bolts.

Protection

5 bolts and 2 bolt chain anchor. Alternatively, bring some finger-sized gear.

Photos

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Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11d
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.11d
Anchor replaced 3/27/11. The bolts themselves weren't in too bad of shape, but the homemade hangars were rusting over and were kind of sketchy. Mar 27, 2011