Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Brian Riepe, 8/89
Page Views: 719 total · 5/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route would be pretty good if it weren't so dirty. Unfortunately, it's currently covered in a thick film of mud that really detracts from the climbing experience.

If you must, begin by scrambling up the ledge and traversing out right. Head up right of the first bolt on good but camoflauged (by mud) holds to a nearly invisible clipping jug right next to the first bolt. Long cranks on large pockets lead to more good crimps past the 2nd bolt. After the third bolt, the wall slabs out and the crimps get very thin and sharp. Some desperate moves lead to some not-as-good-as they look clipping holds at the 4th bolt. A few more casual moves lead to the anchor.

Location

At the right end of BTONP, this route climbs the center of a wide light-gray wall.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor shared with Color of My Potion. May want to stick clip the 1st bolt to avoid a ledge fall.

Photos

- No Photos -
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
Don't be too put off by the above description- dirty holds aren't too much of an issue (but maybe my standards are low or maybe it's seen recent traffic?). It's an aesthetic face, isn't contrivedly close to cracks, and isn't heinously sharp like many harder routes at WR. For these reasons, I think this is my favorite of those on the right side of this crag. I think the above beta may not be the best: I started left of the first bolt. Jul 14, 2011
Sky Sjue
Santa Fe
 
Sky Sjue   Santa Fe
 
I'd like to second George's comment; this description is not fair. This is an excellent route and there isn't any mud on it. The first two clips might get your attention. Oct 28, 2012
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
This climb was dirty today. (edit: and today 11/11/14, and again 12/2017) Dec 28, 2013