Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack)
Avg: 3.8 from 17 votes
Routes in Below The Old New Place
|Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Color of My Potion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Fat Boys Don't Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Flesh-Eating Gnats S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Greg Shredder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Inflight Movie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Instant Dogma S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|L Dopa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Little Shop Of Horrors S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Manic Nirvana S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Monsterpiece Theatre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Oscar de La Cholla T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|P.M.S. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Pathogenic Cysts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Polyester Terror T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Putterman Cracks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Ralph's Dilemma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Ralph's Leisure Suit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Ralph's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Route 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Route 22 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Route 24 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Route 25 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Route 26 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Route 27 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Route 31 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Route 32 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Sardonic Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Scandanavian Airlines S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Strong Urge to Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Wailing Banshees S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|FA:||TRed by LA Mountaineers in the 70s|
|Page Views:||3,171 total, 25/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Jul 19, 2007|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionA beautiful slightly overhanging finger crack with just enough footholds and pockets on the faces. Shake out at the hand jam rest before a couple of thin, cruxy face moves to easier terrain at the top. Bear to the right up high to reach the anchors.
Originally rated 5.11c/d, but general consensus is that this is a notch or two easier. Still, it's sustained (for White Rock), with no great rests.
At least 2 longtime LA climbers swear this crack was not called Manic Crack back in the day; that this and the crack to its right (now called Lost Nerve in the guidebooks) were referred to as the "Twin Cracks". This makes sense, that the "Manic Crack" name resulted from its nearness to the sport climb "Manic Nirvana", which was bolted in '89 or '90, but most of the cracks here and even some of the faces had been climbed earlier, on TR if not on lead.
LocationObvious slightly overhanging finger crack just right of the Banshees bolted arete climb.
ProtectionRack of cams from a #0.3 camalot to a #2 camalot; some may want 1-3 extras of #0.4 camalot size. Nuts also may be useful, though they're harder to place from pumpy stances.
At the top, angle to the right from the top to the 2-bolt anchor for Manic Nirvana (the sport climb just to the right).