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Routes in Below The Old New Place

Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Color of My Potion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fat Boys Don't Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flesh-Eating Gnats S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Greg Shredder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inflight Movie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Instant Dogma S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
L Dopa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Shop Of Horrors S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Manic Nirvana S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Monsterpiece Theatre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oscar de La Cholla T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
P.M.S. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pathogenic Cysts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Polyester Terror T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Putterman Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ralph's Dilemma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph's Leisure Suit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ralph's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 22 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 24 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 25 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 26 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 27 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 31 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Route 32 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sardonic Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scandanavian Airlines S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Strong Urge to Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wailing Banshees S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Tom Quigley
Page Views: 468 total, 4/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Mar 21, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

One of the easier climbs at BTONP, Instant Dogma is unfortunately not quite as fun as it appears from the ground. Climb up the pronounced arete, using sharp, incut pockets on both sides. The crux is probably the off-balance exit sequence past the third bolt, but the climbing is pretty sustained for the whole route.

Location

Next bolted line right of IDYWASIAD

Protection

3 bolts. Anchor as for IDYWASIAD

Photos

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Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
 
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
 
Hmmm... maybe I was just climbing poorly and putting too much weight on my fingers that day.

I also remember thinking that this was a bit sandbagged. 11a, maybe? Apr 6, 2009
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
 
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
 
Got on this route for the first time today and actually enjoyed it quite a bit. Yes, there are some pretty sharp holds on it, but the rock is solid, the moves are cool and there's a fun balancy move to finish. Apr 5, 2009