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Routes in Below The Old New Place

Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Color of My Potion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fat Boys Don't Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flesh-Eating Gnats S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Greg Shredder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inflight Movie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Instant Dogma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
L Dopa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Shop Of Horrors S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Manic Nirvana S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Monsterpiece Theatre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oscar de La Cholla T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
P.M.S. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pathogenic Cysts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Polyester Terror T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Putterman Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ralph's Dilemma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph's Leisure Suit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ralph's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 22 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 24 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 25 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 26 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 27 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 31 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Route 32 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sardonic Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scandinavian Airlines S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Strong Urge to Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wailing Banshees S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Matt Lisenby
Page Views: 454 total · 5/month
Shared By: Matt Lisenby on Apr 1, 2011
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Between L-Dopa and right twin crack: short face climbing off the ground to a shallow slabby dihedral, then to vertical wall with very thin crack (short crux), finish straight up to the rim (No Anchor currently, I have no objection to one being added). Removed dictionary sized hanging flake just above crux. Please submit information regarding earlier ascents/route name if known . . .

Location

Between Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) and L-Dopa. See amended beta photo in main BTONP section.

Protection

Rack to #3 camalot, including small nuts. Protection is better than it looks.

Photos

- No Photos -
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11a
Matt, I talked with another local climber recently and he'd never seen nor heard of anyone climbing this line. I hadn't either. I'd looked at this crack before but figured it too small to protect well. Thanks for inspiration to climb it. I'd say you have the FA of the line and should give it a name.
I found the line entertaining with a fun sequence of moves through the crux. It's inconsistent in difficulty with the short crux section and easier climbing below and above that. It protects adequately enough, though. Tiny nuts are necessary. I really appreciated my WC Superlight Rocks.
After the crux I cut hard left to the anchor on Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) which protected well enough for the second and saved the trouble of topping out. That slope above the route is loose and chock full of cholla. If enough people enjoy this route I'd be happy to put in a fixed anchor if you're OK with it. Apr 27, 2011
Sky Sjue
Santa Fe
Sky Sjue   Santa Fe
Patrick and I both led this tonight. Interesting little climb. There is, for the moment, a fixed RP probably rated about 3 kN in the middle of the thin bit. If you clean it, it's all yours. I will hopefully hop on this again for the clean send in the near future. I thought the top seemed interesting enough and would personally not complain about a fixed anchor, Jason. But it's probably not worth the time and resources. I don't know that this one will ever be a crowd pleaser. May 24, 2012

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