Avg: 2.5 from 6 votes
|Type:||Sport, 40 ft|
|Page Views:||881 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Jason Hundhausen on Mar 21, 2009|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
This is the first bolted route to the right of Instant Dogma. Start atop a short ledge and set off up the overhanging face, working your way up a series of crimps and shallow (some sharp) pockets. Find a decent ledge at the third bolt, then get to figuring out how you're going to get past the steep, seemingly blank crux headwall. The original Samet guide suggests that going left here (there's a pretty good side pull) makes the route 5.12a, while going right and dynoing up to the good ledge high and right makes the route 5.12c. This, to me, is like saying, "If you skip that good hold, the route is a lot harder," which is fine if that good hold is clearly off-route, but in this case, it's not, so I'm a bit confused. Continue up on easier, but slightly loose, terrain to gain the ledge. This route shares anchors with Route 22 (5.9).
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