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Routes in Below The Old New Place

Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Color of My Potion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fat Boys Don't Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flesh-Eating Gnats S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Greg Shredder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inflight Movie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Instant Dogma S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
L Dopa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Shop Of Horrors S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Manic Nirvana S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Monsterpiece Theatre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oscar de La Cholla T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
P.M.S. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pathogenic Cysts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Polyester Terror T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Putterman Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ralph's Dilemma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph's Leisure Suit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ralph's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 22 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 24 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 25 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 26 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 27 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 31 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Route 32 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sardonic Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scandinavian Airlines S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Strong Urge to Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wailing Banshees S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 837 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jason Hundhausen on Mar 21, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This is the first bolted route to the right of Instant Dogma. Start atop a short ledge and set off up the overhanging face, working your way up a series of crimps and shallow (some sharp) pockets. Find a decent ledge at the third bolt, then get to figuring out how you're going to get past the steep, seemingly blank crux headwall. The original Samet guide suggests that going left here (there's a pretty good side pull) makes the route 5.12a, while going right and dynoing up to the good ledge high and right makes the route 5.12c. This, to me, is like saying, "If you skip that good hold, the route is a lot harder," which is fine if that good hold is clearly off-route, but in this case, it's not, so I'm a bit confused. Continue up on easier, but slightly loose, terrain to gain the ledge. This route shares anchors with Route 22 (5.9).

Protection

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

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Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
 
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
 
Cool route. Continuous overhanging climbing on a mix of pockets, only a few of which are of the "thank-god" variety. The crux section near the top felt pretty damn tough, although only for a couple moves, where you reach a pretty good ledge. The dyno that I think Samet is referring to would be sick to stick (and a big one!), but makes no sense as there's a decent side-pull up left, which is certainly on-route. Having very little experience with White Rock 12s, I can't say what I think the grade is, but I agree with George that it's quite a bit harder than Wailing Banshees or Flesh-Eating Gnats. Aug 26, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
Jason is right. The crux on this route is totally rad, and yes, it seemed harder than 5.11c (my estimate from my TRing session would be 5.12a, but I'm not sure). Not exactly tightly bolted either, so be ready go large! I doubt I'll have the stones to lead this anytime soon (I top roped Fat Boys after leading the crack to its left, which is a fun route in itself).

In any case, Fat Boys Don't Fly is a forgotten classic that should be on every BTONP hard-person's circuit. Mar 22, 2010
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
Finally got a chance to lead this yesterday. It's not quite as good as I remembered, but still a fun climb. The crux, at least the way I did it, involves several big moves between big holds, but definitely nothing I would call a dyno. I would say 5.12a is fair for this beta, though I bet some people might find it soft for the grade if they are better at steep, pumpy climbing than they are at the technical face climbing ubiquitous to WR. Jul 29, 2011
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
I'd mostly avoided "Fat Boys" for its reputation for big moves and being so close to the crack, and because I remembered at one point being scared getting to the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd bolt, but I got after it again this spring and enjoyed it. Don't bother trying to fly- the dyno is silly- but the alternate beta may still be too reachy for short people. The steep, bouldery crux is atypical for White Rock, with a decent pump already building on the pocket pulling up to it. Though I'd say this is one of the harder ones, "White Rock 12a" is a fair rating consistent with others in the area, using the high left-hand side pull but no cracks (disregard published 11c and 12c ratings). Apr 28, 2017
I bolted this route with Bob. He definitely didn't do the FA. Aug 3, 2017
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12a
Camster wrote:I bolted this route with Bob. He definitely didn't do the FA.
Thanks Cam. Did you do the FA then? We'll update the page with proper info if so. Aug 4, 2017

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