Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Below The Old New Place

Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Color of My Potion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fat Boys Don't Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flesh-Eating Gnats S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Greg Shredder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inflight Movie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Instant Dogma S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
L Dopa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Shop Of Horrors S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manic Nirvana S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Monsterpiece Theatre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oscar de La Cholla T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
P.M.S. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pathogenic Cysts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Polyester Terror T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Putterman Cracks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ralph's Dilemma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph's Leisure Suit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ralph's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Route 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 22 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 24 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 25 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 26 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 27 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 31 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Route 32 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sardonic Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scandanavian Airlines S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Strong Urge to Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wailing Banshees S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Ralph Menikoff
Page Views: 1,469 total, 12/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jun 22, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


22 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

One of the best cracks of the grade in White Rock.
Scramble onto the shelf, and stem up the clean dihedral with the 1" crack in the back. Up high, the crack turns into a pod, then turn a small roof. Alternatively you can escape right to the Adam Ant anchors (easiest) or left to the Flesh-Eating Gnats anchors.

Location

Obvious open book right of Flesh Eating Gnats and left of Adam Ant.

Protection

Standard Rack of cams and nuts up to 2". Some may want doubles of the #0.75 camalot.
2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.9+
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.9+
The pro seemed fine to me, though as with many cracks here, cams take a little extra thought to place because the cracks are pretty rough. I gave it a 5.9+ rating simply because it seems harder than most White Rock 5.9s... Apr 8, 2009
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.9+
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.9+
I gave this a "plus" rating because for the inexperienced trad leader, getting good pro can be a bit challenging. Not to say it doesn't have good pro, it's just not as straightforward as some other climbs. I went left near the roof and over to the anchors for Flesh Eating Gnats. It's definitely run-out at that point, but everything you need is there. You can fit in a small piece (tips size) if you want, or, if you don't have that size (like me) you can just keep going. Excellent climb though! Jul 2, 2007