Elevation: 6,180 ft
GPS: 35.819, -106.187 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 36,981 total · 201/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: May 7, 2022 - Los Alamos County Stage 3 (Full Closure) Fire Restrictions Details
Access Issue: May 7, 2022 - Los Alamos County Stage 3 (Full Closure) Fire Restrictions Details

Description

This crag is known for its high concentration of fully-bolted sport climbs, that ascend high quality pocketed basalt. This cliff probably has the highest concentration of hard routes at White Rock, with 10 of its 30 or so routes checking in at 5.12. The cliff also offers an excellent cliff-base atmosphere, with large, flat belay zones, flat rocks for sitting, and a beautiful, relaxed setting. The routes are so convenient and dense that its easy to tick 10 or more routes in an afternoon.

The cliff faces generally East like most WR crags, but the dihedral-ly nature of the cliff causes a bit more sun/shade variety than other nearby crags. The most northerly facing routes get shade a bit after 1pm, while some routes aren't fully shaded till after 3pm.

While the rock here is excellent, the crag is a bit short (~50-60 feet), and many of the climbs suffer from mud runoff, coating routes like Sardonic Smile in a thick layer of dirt. Its easy to spot the dirty routes from the ground: they're the ones that look white or light gray.

This area first appeared in the original "Sport Climbing in New Mexico" book by Randal Jett and Matt Samet. The Below the Old New Place excerpt from that book can be found here on the Los Alamos Mountaineers website.

Getting There

Stolen from Jason H: From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs. Once at the canyon rim, turn left and walk N for ~50 yds, along the top of "The Old New Place". Locate an easy descent path (one 6 foot downclimb) that switches back down past the Old New Place (to the S), and eventually leads to the S end of Below The Old New Place. Total approach time is ~5 minutes. First bolted routes encountered are Scandinavian Airlines and Inflight Movie.

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Below The Old New Place

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 25
Ralph's Revenge
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 21
Ralph's Dilemma
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Polyester Terror
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 30
P.M.S.
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 21
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack)
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 39
Wailing Banshees
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 36
Flesh-Eating Gnats
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
Pathogenic Cysts
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
Inflight Movie
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 31
Monsterpiece Theatre
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Little Shop Of Horrors
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Ralph's Leisure Suit
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 26
Atom Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm)
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Sardonic Smile
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Fat Boys Don't Fly
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ralph's Revenge
 25
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Ralph's Dilemma
 21
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Polyester Terror
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
P.M.S.
 30
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin…
 21
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Wailing Banshees
 39
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Flesh-Eating Gnats
 36
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Pathogenic Cysts
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Inflight Movie
 18
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Monsterpiece Theatre
 31
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Little Shop Of Horrors
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ralph's Leisure Suit
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Atom Ant (aka Nuclear Ant F…
 26
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Sardonic Smile
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Fat Boys Don't Fly
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Below The Old New Place »

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