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Below The Old New Place Rock Climbing
Routes in Below The Old New Place
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Atom Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Color of My Potion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fat Boys Don't Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flesh-Eating Gnats S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Greg Shredder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Inflight Movie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Instant Dogma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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L Dopa T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Little Shop Of Horrors S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Manic Nirvana S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Mollie's Pained Thoughts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Monsterpiece Theatre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Oscar de La Cholla T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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P.M.S. S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Pajarito Burrito T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pathogenic Cysts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Polyester Terror T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Putterman Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ralph's Dilemma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ralph's Leisure Suit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ralph's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Route 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Route 22 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 24 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 25 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Route 26 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Route 27 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sardonic Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Scandinavian Airlines S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Strong Urge to Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wailing Banshees S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Zoe's Whirl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Elevation: | 6,180 ft | 1,884 m |
| GPS: |
35.81897, -106.1871 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 41,179 total · 182/month | |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
This crag is known for its high concentration of fully-bolted sport climbs that ascend high quality pocketed basalt. This cliff probably has the highest concentration of hard routes at White Rock, with 10 of its 30 or so routes checking in at 5.12. The cliff also offers an excellent cliff-base atmosphere, with large, flat belay zones, flat rocks for sitting, and a beautiful, relaxed setting. The routes are so convenient and dense that its easy to tick 10 or more routes in an afternoon.
The cliff faces generally East like most WR crags, but the dihedral-ly nature of the cliff causes a bit more sun/shade variety than other nearby crags. The most northerly facing routes get shade a bit after 1pm, while some routes aren't fully shaded till after 3pm.
While the rock here is excellent, the crag is a bit short (~40-50 feet), and many of the climbs suffer from mud runoff, coating routes like Sardonic Smile in a thick layer of dirt. Its easy to spot the dirty routes from the ground: they're the ones that look white or light gray.
Getting There
From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs. Once at the canyon rim, turn left and walk N for ~50 yds, along the top of "The Old New Place". Locate an easy descent path (one 6 foot downclimb) that switches back down past the Old New Place (to the S), and eventually leads to the S end of Below The Old New Place. Total approach time is ~5 minutes. First bolted routes encountered are Scandinavian Airlines and Inflight Movie.
Classic Climbing Routes at Below The Old New Place
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
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Guidebooks (6)
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