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Routes in Below The Old New Place

Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Color of My Potion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fat Boys Don't Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flesh-Eating Gnats S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Greg Shredder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inflight Movie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Instant Dogma S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
L Dopa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Shop Of Horrors S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manic Nirvana S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Monsterpiece Theatre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oscar de La Cholla T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
P.M.S. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pathogenic Cysts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Polyester Terror T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Putterman Cracks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ralph's Dilemma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph's Leisure Suit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ralph's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Route 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 22 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 24 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 25 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 26 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 27 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 31 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Route 32 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sardonic Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scandanavian Airlines S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Strong Urge to Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wailing Banshees S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ralph Menikoff
Page Views: 662 total, 5/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jun 22, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This crack climb is more continuously pumpy and has almost no good rest stances compared to most White Rock cracks at this grade.

A right-leaning crack in the middle of a face with small holds and pockets. There are a few cruxes, first at a wide pod about halfway up, just after the pod with thin feet, and the steep final 8 feet.

The anchor is just left at the finish, and can be used to set a TR on Little Shop of Horrors.

Location

Obvious right-leaning crack on the face right of the sport climbs Monsterpiece Theatre and Little Shop of Horrors.

Protection

Standard rack of nuts and cams from 0.5" to 3". The Little Shop of Horrors 2-bolt anchor is easily reached from this route.

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