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Routes in Below The Old New Place

Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Color of My Potion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fat Boys Don't Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flesh-Eating Gnats S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Greg Shredder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inflight Movie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Instant Dogma S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
L Dopa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Shop Of Horrors S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Manic Nirvana S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Monsterpiece Theatre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oscar de La Cholla T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
P.M.S. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pathogenic Cysts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Polyester Terror T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Putterman Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ralph's Dilemma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph's Leisure Suit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ralph's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 22 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 24 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 25 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 26 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 27 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 31 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Route 32 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sardonic Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scandanavian Airlines S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Strong Urge to Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wailing Banshees S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Nathaniel Walker and Walt Wehner, 11/18/97
Page Views: 608 total, 5/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Sep 4, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This squeezed bolted face climb is one of the more recent additions to the BONP, and is omitted from the guidebooks despite having been bolted in '97.

Scramble up the blocky crack at the start of Ralph's Dilemma, as you would for Flesh Eating Gnats, then step right and climb up the face left of the 'Gnats' arete. Crimp up fun and progressively thinning face to the last bolt, which is followed by an overhanging section to the chains. I thought the last move was the hardest, reachiest, and most strenuous move on the climb, with a powerful lieback to reach the holds to clip the chains. The crack to the left is assumed to be 'off', although it would be highly contrived to avoid using the crack below the first bolt.

The climb is perhaps offensive to some, because the anchors provide convenient pro for the crux roof traverse on the previously climbed crack to its left, Ralphs Dilemma.

Location

The bolted climb left of Flesh Eating Gnats and right of the crack Ralphs Dilemma.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor

Photos

Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11c
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.11c
As George said, this route is a little contrived and definitely detracts from the aesthetics of Ralph's Dilemma. Maybe it shouldn't have been bolted, but now that has, it's worth climbing. Fun moves and a dynamic crux finish. Apr 15, 2009
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
Nathaniel may have been involved, but Walt Wehner actually bolted the route. Jan 8, 2009