Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Cam Burns, Jean Delataillade, 1990
Page Views: 867 total · 6/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Another fine 12a on the left end of BTONP. There are 5 5.12a's within 15 feet of each other--a true sport climber's paradise! This one begins in the large dihedral before breaking out left onto the slabby face, with a long runout to the first bolt. Good crimping and sweet pockets lead up the narrowing wall to the crux section at the 4th bolt (and a difficult clip).

At this point the devil on your shoulder will try to lure you out left to the splitter hand crack and an eternity of 5.11c regret. If the angel prevails, head right and up via some thin, rounded crimps and sequential pockets, eventually heading back left to a large, heavily chalked crimp (visible from the ground). Clip the last bolt then head back right using a difficult-to-see crimp and a highly polished crimp on the arete. Some awkward footwork and perhaps an undercling lead to a horrible sidepull immediately next to the left anchor chain. From here I suppose most folks grab the chains in desperation, and some use the hard-to-ignore crack on the right, while the few purists will execute one more hard move to a large hidden hold in the roof crack.

Location

The 5th bolted route from the left; ends below a large roof.

Protection

5 Bolts, 2 BA

Photos

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Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.12a
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.12a
Would be 4 stars if not for the crack contrivance at the top. Apr 16, 2007
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
 
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
 
Ditto for the crack contrivance at the top. Additionally, the third bolt placement could be better. After you clip the second bolt, you continue a few moves above the bolt to a great stance (where a bolt would be helpful), then do a few semi-difficult moves where if you fall you could find yourself with a sore ankle on the slab below. Of course, you have a great pocket to finally clip the third bolt. The rest of the climb is protected well. Nov 5, 2007
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
The left anchor chain really gets in the way when trying to finish legitimately (no cracks). It's probably overall a better climb if you allow yourself use of cracks on either side at the end and appreciate it for being a decent, thin 11c face. Apr 28, 2017