Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Below The Old New Place

Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Color of My Potion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fat Boys Don't Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flesh-Eating Gnats S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Greg Shredder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inflight Movie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Instant Dogma S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
L Dopa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Shop Of Horrors S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manic Nirvana S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Monsterpiece Theatre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oscar de La Cholla T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
P.M.S. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pathogenic Cysts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Polyester Terror T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Putterman Cracks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ralph's Dilemma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph's Leisure Suit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ralph's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Route 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 22 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 24 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 25 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 26 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 27 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 31 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Route 32 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sardonic Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scandanavian Airlines S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Strong Urge to Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wailing Banshees S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Cam Burns, Jean Delataillade, 1990
Page Views: 776 total, 6/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Another fine 12a on the left end of BTONP. There are 5 5.12a's within 15 feet of each other--a true sport climber's paradise! This one begins in the large dihedral before breaking out left onto the slabby face, with a long runout to the first bolt. Good crimping and sweet pockets lead up the narrowing wall to the crux section at the 4th bolt (and a difficult clip).

At this point the devil on your shoulder will try to lure you out left to the splitter hand crack and an eternity of 5.11c regret. If the angel prevails, head right and up via some thin, rounded crimps and sequential pockets, eventually heading back left to a large, heavily chalked crimp (visible from the ground). Clip the last bolt then head back right using a difficult-to-see crimp and a highly polished crimp on the arete. Some awkward footwork and perhaps an undercling lead to a horrible sidepull immediately next to the left anchor chain. From here I suppose most folks grab the chains in desperation, and some use the hard-to-ignore crack on the right, while the few purists will execute one more hard move to a large hidden hold in the roof crack.

Location

The 5th bolted route from the left; ends below a large roof.

Protection

5 Bolts, 2 BA

Photos

- No Photos -
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
The left anchor chain really gets in the way when trying to finish legitimately (no cracks). It's probably overall a better climb if you allow yourself use of cracks on either side at the end and appreciate it for being a decent, thin 11c face. Apr 28, 2017
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
 
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
 
Ditto for the crack contrivance at the top. Additionally, the third bolt placement could be better. After you clip the second bolt, you continue a few moves above the bolt to a great stance (where a bolt would be helpful), then do a few semi-difficult moves where if you fall you could find yourself with a sore ankle on the slab below. Of course, you have a great pocket to finally clip the third bolt. The rest of the climb is protected well. Nov 5, 2007
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
Would be 4 stars if not for the crack contrivance at the top. Apr 16, 2007