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Paul's Boutique
5.11b,
Sport, 55 ft (17 m),
Avg: 2.7 from 26
votes
FA: Cam Burns, Mike Schillaci
New Mexico
> Los Alamos & Wh…
> White Rock
> Overlook
> South/E side
Description
Very nice arete route with hard, thin moves down low to more enjoyable climbing above on the arete. Hit a neat mono to undercling next to the second bolt in a pocket that feels really sharp if you use more than one finger and crank to a good ledge on the arete. Stay on the arete using nice holds on both sides of the arete to the anchor. The route tends to be dirty after big storms as it is a natural run-off line during rain storms.
While it's rated 5.11b, it's not nearly as sustained nor difficult as other classic White Rock arete routes like
Wailing Banshees or
Flesh-Eating Gnats.
Location
The first prominent bolted arete line you'll find when you climb up on the lower boulder/wall. (That's not a great sentence but it'll make sense when you're down there. I think.) Shown as route number 5 on the
Overlook route topo photo. Accessed by the easy scrambling on top of the
Lower Buttress.
Protection
6 bolts to bolted anchor. All of the hangers and most of the bolts on the route have been replaced between 2012 and 2013.
![Pauls Boutique (5.11b sport) Follow the bolted arete. Finish on the right side of the arete at two chains and quickclips.]()
[Hide Photo] Pauls Boutique (5.11b sport) Follow the bolted arete. Finish on the right side of the arete at two chains and quickclips.
!["Paul's Boutique" with a sweet view in the background.]()
[Hide Photo] "Paul's Boutique" with a sweet view in the background.
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Reno, NV
If you aren't up for leading it, it is easy to set up a TR by traversing from the "Left Headwall Crack" anchors (clipping the PB anchors as a directional, of course). Dec 4, 2009
Tempe, AZ
Los Alamos, NM
The fifth bolt, with the worst-looking SMC hanger, is also a sleeve bolt but the sleeve and cone are spinning in the hole so I couldn't remove the bolt/hanger. Thus, it hasn't been upgraded yet. I suspect it'll require drilling a new hole nearby and then working to remove this one with a lot of elbow grease.
The climbing is easier up there, though, and even in the unlikely event of a full bolt/hanger failure in a fall, the climber will still be plenty off the deck.
We also beefed up the anchor a bit and added lowering biners.
Edit 1/14/2012: We were able to remove the fifth bolt, but not the sleeve so we hammered it back into the hole and drilled a new bolt placement a few inches lower. Nov 27, 2011
Los Alamos, NM
NM
Los Alamos, NM
Los Alamos, NM
Albuquerque, NM