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Must'a Been High 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Eric DeCaria
Page Views: 5,393
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Apr 23, 2007
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Brad Gobright gets horizontal in the meat of it.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a fairly serious headpoint route. If slash grades were provided for seriousness, I would give it an R/X. This is due to the questionable nature of the gear below the first crux and the low angle terrain in the crux's fall zone. If the protection holds, the fall will be long but most likely safe. If not, you will slam into the slabby arete below and come very close to hitting the ground. In either scenario, it's easy to imagine at least a sprained ankle but definitely no ground falls or death potential.

The first 20 feet of this route is well protected, moderately difficult (10), low angle corner climbing that leads to a large jug at the top of the slab. Beyond this height, the angle of the wall steepens and the nature of the route dramatically changes. When you have conjured your psyche, and placed your gear (small TCU, sliding nut, and a suspect piton), climb into the shuffled offsets and cast into the business of slapping and hugging your way up an unruly, 3 foot wide, vertical column to an good undercling 12 feet above your last piece. If you make it here, you are rewarded with a very solid fixed nut. At this point, the difficulty and danger eases, but the fight isn't over because blind placements, awkward gear, and pumpy, complicated 5.12 offset climbing still guards the chains.


Location 

This route is located about 25 feet left of Climb of the Century. Start in a corner just left of a short arete feature.


Protection 

Thin gear, a slider nut, some quickdraws and a helmet.

If you desire to toprope this route, the anchors can be reached by making a spooky traverse from the anchors of Climb of the Century.



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By Eric DeCaria
Jun 1, 2007

Must'a Been High!!!
Knifeblade was the only fixed protection I used on the first ascent. Replaced the anchor slings winter '07.

By Ty Harlacker
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 6, 2011

You have more stones than I, good sir.