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 ADVANCED
Middle Spire
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Unnamed 

Hard Up 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 1,030
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 15, 2006
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Moselle did an interesting variation in which she ...

Description 

Climb the crack/corner right of the start of "Over Easy" to the roof, then join that route.

This is a much better start to "Over Easy".


Protection 

Cams, slings for knobs.



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By SKI
From: Portlandia, OR
Jun 30, 2010

Use small cams for the thin lieback. a .3 camalot and a .5 for the roof crack works fine.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Dec 10, 2011

This was a very cool route, easily the best 5.9 and under offering I tried on this spire. The starting finger crack leads to an easy roof, leads to the classic knob hiking shared with Over Easy.